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Paint
Apr 19, 2007 16:39:42 GMT -7
Post by Scruffy21 Racing on Apr 19, 2007 16:39:42 GMT -7
F.A.S.T.,
I want to thank you for your directions. I did my first ever lead pour today based on your advice and it couldn't have gone any smoother. Thanks again. I am trying to get my first car ready for June. I won't be able to make the May deadline as I will be out of the country. I think my first car will be a tribute car to the fallen students of Virginia Tech since I am from Hokie country. Very sad for the community as well as the nation.
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Paint
Apr 19, 2007 19:53:19 GMT -7
Post by alineperformance on Apr 19, 2007 19:53:19 GMT -7
If it is a tribute car, are we obliged to "let it win"? Not... But we will root for the car and pray for the families of those affected.
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Paint
Apr 20, 2007 5:19:53 GMT -7
Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Apr 20, 2007 5:19:53 GMT -7
F.A.S.T., I want to thank you for your directions. I did my first ever lead pour today based on your advice and it couldn't have gone any smoother. Thanks again. I am trying to get my first car ready for June. I won't be able to make the May deadline as I will be out of the country. I think my first car will be a tribute car to the fallen students of Virginia Tech since I am from Hokie country. Very sad for the community as well as the nation. Glad that I could help
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Paint
May 13, 2007 18:43:54 GMT -7
Post by Scruffy21 Racing on May 13, 2007 18:43:54 GMT -7
Qucik question for all you paint experts. I painted my car today and didn't do to bad. I laid a little extra paint on over the stencil, but will have to adjust that for next time. I added the clear and thought I did the correct ration of clear to catalyst to reducer, but I do not have that wet look to my car. Can someone explain the proper technique and the correct recipe for the clear coat? ANy help would be appreciated.
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Paint
May 13, 2007 18:57:13 GMT -7
Post by P D D R 2 on May 13, 2007 18:57:13 GMT -7
Qucik question for all you paint experts. I painted my car today and didn't do to bad. I laid a little extra paint on over the stencil, but will have to adjust that for next time. I added the clear and thought I did the correct ration of clear to catalyst to reducer, but I do not have that wet look to my car. Can someone explain the proper technique and the correct recipe for the clear coat? ANy help would be appreciated. What clear did you use?? What type of gun did you spray it with ? Airbrush or big spray gun...
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Paint
May 13, 2007 19:15:58 GMT -7
Post by P D D R 2 on May 13, 2007 19:15:58 GMT -7
Qucik question for all you paint experts. I painted my car today and didn't do to bad. I laid a little extra paint on over the stencil, but will have to adjust that for next time. I added the clear and thought I did the correct ration of clear to catalyst to reducer, but I do not have that wet look to my car. Can someone explain the proper technique and the correct recipe for the clear coat? ANy help would be appreciated. What clear did you use?? What type of gun did you spray it with ? Airbrush or big spray gun... If you used the House of Kolor 2 part clear and you didn't get the wet look shine after you sprayed it.... You didn't lay down a wet enough coat of clear, you must of sprayed very light coats... when clear coating spray down a very good wet coat just enough so it won't run. It's different that spray cans.. Also when using 2 part automotive clear coats Urathane or polyurathane you must spray it so when you are done sraying each coat that it has that wet glassy coat as you spray. So when your done spraying it looks like you want it. There is another trick to do to it to make it look even better after the clear has dried for 24+ hours is to sand all the shine off it with 2000 grit sand paper and then buff the super high gloss back into it for the Super Rich Deep Down Mirror Finsh everyone desires... it is a scary thing to do even for the experts cause you never want to sand through an edge of the body and have to start all over again... now that isn't fun... I have done that before... but once you get the hang of it, it becomes much easyer to do... I'm sure Hillbilly has seen that happen and knows what I'm talking about... I usely put down 3-4 full wet coats of clear before I'm done.
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Paint
May 13, 2007 23:00:06 GMT -7
Post by Hillbilly Kustoms on May 13, 2007 23:00:06 GMT -7
it is a scary thing to do even for the experts cause you never want to sand through an edge of the body and have to start all over again... now that isn't fun... I have done that before... but once you get the hang of it, it becomes much easyer to do... I'm sure Hillbilly has seen that happen and knows what I'm talking about... Heh, never done that. Ehh, yeah right . . . . Agreed, that is about the worst feeling as a painter next to signing the side of a custom painted car with a niagra sized run. I've never done that one either. ! Although, I've been told that if you don't run the clear once in a while, it means you're not trying hard enough. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. ;D A1 nailed it on the head, spray it wet, once you get the technique down you might even get lucky sometimes and not have to buff afterwards. Now that is a perfect day in the booth. I could use more of those.
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Paint
May 14, 2007 4:27:53 GMT -7
Post by Scruffy21 Racing on May 14, 2007 4:27:53 GMT -7
Thanks for the response guys. I am using the HOK UC35 Kosmic Klear along with the KU150 Exempt Catalyst. I am using an airbrush which I am sure is not the correct tool of choice but that is all I have right now. Am I missing a part of the formula or are the two products I am using correct? I read the HOK tech manual and it also had a reducer in there. If you could give me the correct way to mix up this stuff maybe I will have better luck. Also, how quickly do you put the next coat of clear on after each preceeding coat? Thanks again. I hope to have my first car in for the June race.
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Paint
May 14, 2007 7:34:44 GMT -7
Post by Hillbilly Kustoms on May 14, 2007 7:34:44 GMT -7
That clear is mixed 2:1:1 . . . 2 parts clear, 1 part cat and 1 part reducer. If you're spraying it through an airbrush you'll definately need to reduce it a bit more. I can't tell you how much because I don't have any idea which airbrush you're using or how much pressure you can/are spraying with. Those will make a huge difference.
I wouldn't worry too much about running the clear, the airbrush isn't going to put out anywhere near as much material as a big gun does. Lay it on there! Give yourself 5-10 minutes between coats. Only risk is with the over-reduction. Reducer can cause solvent pop, not likely with an airbrush because the build is minimal but . . . never say never.
Spray it so it looks wet, if it doesn't look wet when you're done spraying a coat it isn't going to have enough flow to correct itself. Big guns have an advantage because they put enough material that a little texture will flow out.
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Paint
May 14, 2007 17:53:08 GMT -7
Post by Scruffy21 Racing on May 14, 2007 17:53:08 GMT -7
Hillbilly, thanks again for the help. I laid the clear on thicker and I believe I got the desired look I was looking for. Glad to have such a good forum with experienced builders who can help out the newbie. Will post pix after it dries!
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Paint
May 14, 2007 21:03:26 GMT -7
Post by Hillbilly Kustoms on May 14, 2007 21:03:26 GMT -7
Hillbilly, thanks again for the help. I laid the clear on thicker and I believe I got the desired look I was looking for. Glad to have such a good forum with experienced builders who can help out the newbie. Will post pix after it dries! No problem. Glad we can assist you. Can't wait to see the car!
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Paint
May 15, 2007 9:17:40 GMT -7
Post by Scruffy21 Racing on May 15, 2007 9:17:40 GMT -7
Hillbilly,
Do you polish the car after the clear coat is on or does it dry to a hard smooth finish?
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Paint
May 15, 2007 17:45:16 GMT -7
Post by Hillbilly Kustoms on May 15, 2007 17:45:16 GMT -7
That all depends on whether the God of Shiny paint is smiling on me that particular day or not. Nomatter how nice the clear lays out, it always looks better with a little love from the buffer.
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