TXJay
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Post by TXJay on Mar 17, 2010 12:43:31 GMT -7
Did you try coating the tread and the inside part of the wheel that runs the rail with graphite? FDW only, never the rears. Well, I did coat the inside part of the wheel but not the tread on the DFW. Does that improve the speeds that much? I am talking 2.522 average times against a 2.478 average times on a car that doesn't run canted axles or rail (riding, hugging, tickling, kissing chose your adjective). ;D on a 35ft Best track. |
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Post by cygnus on Mar 17, 2010 13:30:02 GMT -7
Are you using an alignment board “with a rail” so that you can see (at slow speed) if the rear wheel on the DFW side is staying off the rail?
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Post by Zeebzob on Mar 17, 2010 13:37:46 GMT -7
Yeah, something is going on....that time seems way off. Last year Glenn took a section off his track and he was getting 2.483 with a 2.485 average. That was with the old heavier wheels. Graphite on the tread won't pick it up that much. How does it sound when its going down the track? The fast cars will be smooth and quiet. Make sure those rear wheels do not touch the rail at all.
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Post by txchemist on Mar 17, 2010 16:33:06 GMT -7
Find a small ball bearing- 1" or smaller, and find a way to time it a few times down the track. Also watch where it rolls. If your track is super level, you should only get a few bounces off a rail, but mostly some random times except for a rare "no touches" perfect roll ( the fastest time). If your track is not level, you will get most times all clustered together and see the ball hug one side or the other. If this is the case, then you could have a back wheel always drifting into a rail, and if you tune to your track, you might not get the good performance on other tracks.
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TXJay
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Post by TXJay on Mar 18, 2010 6:01:16 GMT -7
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TXJay
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Posts: 71
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Post by TXJay on Mar 18, 2010 6:11:47 GMT -7
First off... did I prep the wheels and axles? The wheels were ordered prepped but the axles were polished by me using the sub 3 polishing kit. Yes No. It seems to go pretty straight until I get the drift way off then some small wiggle at the end. Yes, I have tried several different drifts The rear wheels stay out on the axle heads the whole time. It doesn't appear to touch the rail going down the track Yes, it is steering toward the raised wheel. Thanks for the reply. |
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TXJay
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Post by TXJay on Mar 18, 2010 6:17:47 GMT -7
Maybe I will just send it in to the Jewkes to see if they can figure out what is wrong.
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Post by ACME Racing on Mar 18, 2010 6:23:44 GMT -7
It would appear to me that the rears do not have negative camber? It looks like your left rear has positive camber. Also the steer axle is too loose.
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Post by Zeebzob on Mar 18, 2010 7:06:29 GMT -7
Yeah, it looks like the rears are not canted....when I look at the rear view of my cars, the cant is very noticeable.
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TXJay
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Post by TXJay on Mar 18, 2010 8:26:46 GMT -7
It would appear to me that the rears do not have negative camber? It looks like your left rear has positive camber. Also the steer axle is too loose. Well it definitely has a negative camber. The picture is not a good reference unfortunately. This was drilled (with the help of Fat Boy) using the Block. He can chime in here on this. I will get a better picture of the rear. Looking at it while sitting on the starting gate you can definitely see the cant. It looks like the letter "A" if you look at it from the back. |
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Post by Fat Boy on Mar 18, 2010 8:27:13 GMT -7
i think the pictures are deceiving.
that block was drilled with rear cant using the supplied pin with the block.
what about the lube technique ?
any thing different between the 2 test cars ?
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TXJay
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Post by TXJay on Mar 18, 2010 8:33:06 GMT -7
i think the pictures are deceiving. that block was drilled with rear cant using the supplied pin with the block. what about the lube technique ? any thing different between the 2 test cars ? Hey Fat Boy! Thanks for chiming in here. The lube technique is the same other than burnishing the side walls of the car where the hub meets the car. But my thinking here is that if the alignment is correct (which we know it is since we used the Block) that should not matter that much should it? |
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Post by W Racing on Mar 18, 2010 8:39:49 GMT -7
I would say the car is upside down or the rear wheels are pushed in too far...
Can you take a picture of the car with the rear wheels pulled out to the heads?
What axles are you using? They may be very skinny....
Make sure you do not remove the axles by using the wheels as that will often wreck the wheels...
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Post by Fat Boy on Mar 18, 2010 8:48:12 GMT -7
the car is defiantly not upside down. he's running 91sga axles. i think he has entered the world of frustrating tuning ! sometimes as we all know a paticular car just wont go and ! lets not underestimate the fact that fatboy helped !  |
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TXJay
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Post by TXJay on Mar 18, 2010 8:49:10 GMT -7
I would say the car is upside down or the rear wheels are pushed in too far... It's funny you would say that but I did double check just to make sure I didn't goof. Thanks to Fat Boys advice I wrote on each side "TOP" and "BOTTOM" ;D If you look at this picture you can get a better idea of how far the axles are pushed into the rears. How does that look to you?  Yes, I will get better pictures of the rear cant. Sorry these didn't turn out well I took them this morning while I was rushing out the door to go to work. I am using BSA polished axles Yea, I bought the axle pulling pliers that are made for removing the axles. I also use them to turn my DFW alignment axle. |
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