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Post by Wood Butcher Racing on Feb 24, 2010 14:12:07 GMT -7
Mood and Casmir
You guys crack me up !!
I didn't know there are BLACK blocks ... are these limited edition or maybe they are metric?
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Post by P D D R 2 on Feb 24, 2010 14:37:46 GMT -7
We have already though about putting on a scale and its own clamping system
on it from the start of things... we could put allot more into it but the overall cost limits production...
We decided to stop where we did cause the cost was climbing...
Believe me there is allot more this tool has to offer and can perform.
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Post by down4derby on Feb 24, 2010 15:39:13 GMT -7
I know, since getting THE BLOCK my mind has been thinking of ways to build upon it not improve it as its simplicity is a beautiful thing. The axle marking template I use is just a technique. The black surface on my BLOCK might be an improvement to provide a more mirrored surface while checking your drill press. Iv`e thought of something you guys might have too. A jig that slides on the slots for the pin that has a fork with an adjustable drill bit guide for variable cant and axle height to be used with a hand drill. This jig might cost as much as a decent drill press though. Cost vs gains = not worth it.
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TXJay
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Posts: 71
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Post by TXJay on Feb 24, 2010 17:01:19 GMT -7
Here's something I would love to see. A canting pin that is the same length as the BLOCK. I hate when it rocks on the short pin.
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Post by down4derby on Feb 24, 2010 17:19:32 GMT -7
Alignment is everything I thought. I was under the impression that the axles of the rears should meet perfectly point to point. If one rear axle is more lower, higher, for, aft or at a different angle wouldnt this play with side to side weight distribution and how the car rotates on the rear axles?
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Feb 24, 2010 19:16:33 GMT -7
Mood and Casmir You guys crack me up !! I didn't know there are BLACK blocks ... are these limited edition or maybe they are metric?
No... No...No... the black ones aren't metric...
They are for left handed builders.... 
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Feb 24, 2010 19:50:22 GMT -7
Here's something I would love to see. A canting pin that is the same length as the BLOCK. I hate when it rocks on the short pin.
Here's what I use:
www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100079
It's 12 inches long, 1/8 in diameter, cost me less
than 10 bucks at Lowe's. Same size as the
supplied pin. I cut it down to 8 inches with
my Dremel, got a nice 4 inch long 1/8 drill bit
from it to boot!!
Rock On my Brother !!
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Post by 2FAST4U on Feb 24, 2010 19:55:56 GMT -7
Glenn, you're too late!!  And techincally speaking, you don't even need the fence, but it does allow you to easily place your work for repeatability. , exact, and repeatable. IF YOU DRILL WITH OUT A FENCE YOU ARE DEFEATING THE PURPOSE OF THE BLOCK. YOU COULD NEVER GET THE HOLES AT THE SAME RIDE HIEGTH... YES YOU DO NEED THE FENCE, YOU NEED THE FENCE SO WHEN YOU FLIP THE BLOCK OVER TO DRILL THE OTHER REAR AXLE HOLE THEY ARE THE SAME HEIGHT... THE FENCE IS NEEDED IF YOU DRILL ALL FOUR AXLE HOLES THE SAME HEIGHT... THE FENCE IS NEEDED IF YOU DRILL FOR A RAIL RUNNER... THE FENCE IS NEEDED THE FENCE IS NEEDED...  I LIKE THE LOW PROFILE FENCE AND I LIKE THE C CLAMPS FOR MY SELF ... |
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TXJay
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Posts: 71
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Post by TXJay on Feb 24, 2010 20:19:04 GMT -7
The pin is a multi purpose tool. If it was a lot longer you couldn't insure that the drill press chuck and table are squared. Try placing the pin a little closer to the center of the block not to close just a little. This should eliminate the rocking you're experiencing. Try it on a flat surface until you find the pin placement that works for you. Oh, don't get me wrong I love the BLOCK. My son won fastest in rank and fastest in Pack. It wasn't even close. I completely give all credit to this GREAT tool! ;D Now on to District!!! |
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TXJay
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Posts: 71
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Post by TXJay on Feb 24, 2010 20:22:18 GMT -7
Here's what I use: Rock On my Brother !! Thank you!!! I will do this! |
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Post by azgreg on Feb 24, 2010 21:49:07 GMT -7
So Glenn, you're saying that i should use a fence? ;D
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Post by txchemist on Feb 25, 2010 6:57:10 GMT -7
I bought a few 36" tool steel rods for a few bucks apiece and cut me some 8" "pins". Speedy metals. www.speedymetals.com/c-8292-w-1.aspx-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3/32" {A} Rd W-1 Drill Rod-36" SKU: dw.093-36 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1/8" {A} Rd W-1 Drill Rod-36" SKU: dw.125-36 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you do not have a low fence, you will always be needing to set your fence up different to get correct height. BUT- if you use the small 3/32 rod next to your fence, the block can rotate on this low fulcrum when you cant and you can use a single unmovable fence for all axles. When you want to do the raised straight front Axel, just remove the fence rod to raise the hole 3/32". When you put the 1/8 rod in the slot in the block with the 3/32 rod next to the fence, the height will be 3/32 higher than wherever you drill the DFW without the 1/8" rod but with the 3/32 next to the fence. That will give you the correct height between front and back axles even if you drill slightly different than a perfect 1/16" high on the front. ( dinging the block is a bummer). Summary: front DFW axle use 3/32 fence rod when setting your fence. both back axles- use 3/32 fence rod plus use 1/8" rod in block for canting. raised front axle- remove all rods and you get it 3/32 higher than front axle. |
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Post by down4derby on Feb 25, 2010 8:53:51 GMT -7
I believe moving the fence after you drill your rears is ok if you are doing a three wheeler with the fdw axle height offset because its location doesn`t match the rears anyway.
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Post by Wood Butcher Racing on Feb 28, 2010 6:52:13 GMT -7
We have already though about putting on a scale and its own clamping system on it from the start of things... we could put allot more into it but the overall cost limits production... We decided to stop where we did cause the cost was climbing... Believe me there is allot more this tool has to offer and can perform. You are not kidding ... It is totally understandable on the cost limiting. Get it in thier hands in the purest form. And Glenn, about the fence. I'm not trying to be argumentative if it sounds that way. You are absolutely right. The fence is a reference so you can drill holes on both sides exactly the same - very difficult without it. And if the rears aren't drilled exactly the same the geometry will be off. That is the point I was trying to make about moving the fence subjectively instead of just the block with the aid of shims. Leaving the fence alone and adding shims to set the hight for the rears lets you remove shims in exact incriments as you drill the other two. That's all. |
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Post by Advance The Man on Mar 18, 2010 7:34:51 GMT -7
Questions using the block...
If the Block can also perform positive cant for the DFW, then why do I need to bend the axle? I realize it needs additional cant than the rears - why not use a larger 'pin'?
If the drill press table is level, then it doesn't matter my work table is not level - correct?
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