Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Feb 21, 2008 17:54:09 GMT -7
triggerman said:
OK, I have tried to read and digest most of the information on this board. Having some racing and fabrication background in various kinds of scale cars, I have decied to build a jig. It seemed only logical. Now, assuming I can precisely control the angle of each wheel...what is considered IDEAL ALIGNMENT? In particular related to PURE STOCK.Below is what I was "thinking":
Front: (1) raised wheel. Some negative camber (-2,-3 degrees) in this wheel...just in case it does touch the guide there is not much contact? "Toe" ...set at ZERO
Front: (1) "steering wheel"...also with negative camber(-2,-3 degrees) and slightly "toed-in" to steer to center guide. enough toe to "steer" the car 4-6 inches in 10 feet on an alignment board.
Rear: (both wheels) positive camber (2-3 degrees)...absolutely ZERO toe.
Again, Maybe this is wrong. Maybe it is IDEAL to NOT "steer" the car...and have ALL wheels with ZERO toe. My thoughts were ZERO tow might be faster if there was no guide...but with the guide, the car might "dart" alot by boucing of the guide...thus slowing it down.
Anyway, please provide your feedback. Since I don't have a test track at this point, I would prefer to have a good baseline to shoot for...based on expert experience.
Here's what works for me.......Keep in mind
that I'm not the fastest or even in the top 10
The raised front wheel I run 0 degrees. If you
run any camber, pos or neg, you will have
to raise the axle hole higher.
The Dominate Front Wheel (DFW) or steering wheel
I run at +2 degrees positive camber. Positive
camber will force the wheel towards the body. When
set-up as a rail rider, the rail will migrate the wheel
away from the body. Almost 'center' the wheel,
just off the axle head.
The rear wheels I run at -2 degrees. This forces the
wheel away from the body,widens the rear track
so they don't touch the center rail.
I drill all holes perpendicular to centerline of body.
To create toe I use the bent axle method.
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give it up 
