|
Post by Young Guns on Dec 16, 2006 16:11:52 GMT -7
This is my first post and would like to say hi to everyone.
My son, Blake and I are in our second year of pinewood derby. Our first year we took first in our pack race, but did not do as well at district.
The car we made last year was a basic wedge. This year we would like to stay with the wedge, but spice it up a little. The design that we are going for is like "Alnogoslo's OUTBURST". The trouble that we are having is getting the cuts to measure the same on both sides. I am using a router to make the cuts. I have a few other saws that I could us.
Dose anyone know a better way to get the sides of the pwd car the same. Should I try making a template or is trial by error the best way.
thank you,
father with an uneven ride
|
|
|
Post by P D D R 2 on Dec 16, 2006 18:08:12 GMT -7
Hello and welcome to this board.... Have good time here.
To your question... We use a band saw to ruff shape the body...
Then I go to some serious hand sanding and Body filler to get final shapes...
Elbow grease and lots of patience.
Also draw the shape on top and bottom and both sides well help ya ruff cut it....
|
|
|
Post by 2FAST4U on Dec 16, 2006 19:03:51 GMT -7
This is my first post and would like to say hi to everyone. My son, Blake and I are in our second year of pinewood derby. Our first year we took first in our pack race, but did not do as well at district. The car we made last year was a basic wedge. This year we would like to stay with the wedge, but spice it up a little. The design that we are going for is like "Alnogoslo's OUTBURST". The trouble that we are having is getting the cuts to measure the same on both sides. I am using a router to make the cuts. I have a few other saws that I could us. Dose anyone know a better way to get the sides of the pwd car the same. Should I try making a template or is trial by error the best way. thank you, father with an uneven ride hey welcome to the boards... I used a band saw for OUTBURST, what you do is draw the design for the top view on the bottom of the car, and draw the side view of the car on what ever side you choose... cut the side view first then flip the bottom of the car facing up so you can see the top design then cut this out, wal-la you will have your car... then do what a1 said sand and sand and sand... and most of all have fun... ps. you can buy a band saw for $99.00 at lowes... I bought a delta and I love it...
|
|
|
Post by Young Guns on Dec 16, 2006 19:19:29 GMT -7
thank you very much. I already have a band saw so my son and I are getting up early in the morning to give it another try.
thanks again.
|
|
|
Post by alineperformance on Dec 16, 2006 20:59:47 GMT -7
One trick I like is to make a template of one side out of a piece of heavy paper (the weight of a business card) then you can duplicate the identical shape on both halves of the car. For complicated designs I use drafting tracing paper and make a very accurate drawing and then glue it to my piece of wood using 3m spray adhesive. This can be done on top, bottom, or sides. When cutting the shape out, cut the view (top or side) which leaves the majority of your other view intact after cutting the first view or temporarily put the cut piece back long enough to get the second view cut.
Sometimes easier shown than explained? I hope this helps.
|
|
|
Post by 2FAST4U on Dec 16, 2006 21:10:50 GMT -7
One trick I like is to make a template of one side out of a piece of heavy paper (the weight of a business card) then you can duplicate the identical shape on both halves of the car. For complicated designs I use drafting tracing paper and make a very accurate drawing and then glue it to my piece of woor using 3m spray adhesive. This can be done on top, bottom, or sides. When cutting the shape out, cut the view (top or side) which leaves the majority of your other view intact after cutting the first view or temporarily put the cut piece back long enough to get the second view cut. Sometimes easier shown than explained? I hope this helps. or you can just hand it to david and let him shape it... ;D he he he
|
|
|
Post by 2FAST4U on Dec 16, 2006 21:14:18 GMT -7
oh by the way welcome back, go check out my space. post...
|
|
|
Post by docb on Dec 17, 2006 7:18:21 GMT -7
I use a scroll saw to cut out my rough shape. Then use combo of dremel and hand sanding to get the final shape. Oh yea, sometimes alot of wood filler to patch the mistakes. Takes time and patience.
|
|
|
Post by JOKER on Dec 17, 2006 19:17:05 GMT -7
I draw a template similar to what A-Line Performance described for difficult designs that must be precise and replicated on both sides.
More often than not, I have to admit that I shoot "from the hip" and just start sanding with a general idea in my head what the finished block will look like........then it evolves from there.........free-wheeling creativity on the fly! ;D
I remove the majority of the wood with a belt-sander or sanding drum in the drill press.........then fine-tune with a dremel......then finish smoothing with multiple grits of sandpaper.
A digital caliper works nicely to check your accuracy.
I have found that repairing/filling blemishes in the wood works best with bondo & hardener - (works better with the lacquer auto paint that I usually use) - regular wood filler can give you problems later if it has not dried properly before applying the lacquer........still not close to being in David's league though.
|
|
|
Post by W Racing on Jan 24, 2007 23:53:39 GMT -7
Emerson, What technique do you use to drill the holes straight?
|
|
|
Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Jan 25, 2007 10:20:27 GMT -7
I find that if you "choke-up" on the drill bit, only about a 1/2 inch exposed in the chuck, the bit has less tendency to 'wander'.
I also move the block of wood as close to the bit as possible, about 1/4 inch. Less play in the quill of the drill press fully retracted- at least on my $99 table-top model.
Your results may vary......
|
|
|
Post by Young Guns on Jan 25, 2007 10:41:07 GMT -7
I have not had that good of luck drilling my own holes. I was using derby worxs pro body tool. I tried and tried but just could not get all holes drilled square. I just bought a Delta drill press. Have not used it yet to drill axle holes. So I order of few block from MAX-V. Every block that I ordered was square. Runs straight with very little work. The only problem that I had with them is that the raised wheel was so high of the track that I could not us the block in the up coming pack race.
Once again its Glenn to the rescue. He made me two blocks that are better then perfect. Runs straight, fourth wheel is just slightly off the track.
With all the great items that Glenn and David have to offer I am hoping that they will have something out to help with drilling the axles holes. Call it wishful thinking but if anyone can help its the Jewkes boyz.
|
|
|
Post by alineperformance on Jan 25, 2007 13:46:57 GMT -7
If using the "pro body tool" you should start with a sleightly oversized block of wood. If the fit into the tool is tight it is easy to drill straight holes even using a hand drill. I took my "pbt" and had the throat of it deepened so the holes are drilled up 3/16 - 1/4 up into the wood body from the bottom.
Glen and David are working on a new tool for drilling nearly perfect holes. I'm not sure how soon it will be ready to market.
|
|
|
Post by 2FAST4U on Jan 25, 2007 15:52:18 GMT -7
I have not had that good of luck drilling my own holes. I was using derby worxs pro body tool. I tried and tried but just could not get all holes drilled square. I just bought a Delta drill press. Have not used it yet to drill axle holes. So I order of few block from MAX-V. Every block that I ordered was square. Runs straight with very little work. The only problem that I had with them is that the raised wheel was so high of the track that I could not us the block in the up coming pack race. Once again its Glenn to the rescue. He made me two blocks that are better then perfect. Runs straight, fourth wheel is just slightly off the track. With all the great items that Glenn and David have to offer I am hoping that they will have something out to help with drilling the axles holes. Call it wishful thinking but if anyone can help its the Jewkes boyz. ;D... ... ;D... ... ;D... ... ;D... ... ;D... ... ;D... ......
|
|
|
Post by P D D R 2 on Jan 25, 2007 17:31:47 GMT -7
I have not had that good of luck drilling my own holes. I was using derby worxs pro body tool. I tried and tried but just could not get all holes drilled square. I just bought a Delta drill press. Have not used it yet to drill axle holes. So I order of few block from MAX-V. Every block that I ordered was square. Runs straight with very little work. The only problem that I had with them is that the raised wheel was so high of the track that I could not us the block in the up coming pack race. Once again its Glenn to the rescue. He made me two blocks that are better then perfect. Runs straight, fourth wheel is just slightly off the track. With all the great items that Glenn and David have to offer I am hoping that they will have something out to help with drilling the axles holes. Call it wishful thinking but if anyone can help its the Jewkes boyz. ;D... ... ;D... ... ;D... ... ;D... ... ;D... ... ;D... ...... Lets just say that "Young Guns 1" has witnessed what is yet to come..........
|
|