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Post by Slow-Lane on Mar 28, 2007 10:12:20 GMT -7
In my limited experience (Strictly BSA cars), it seems that after a number of runs the car just gets slower - even when lubed/prepped in exactly the same way as in the beginning. I had access to a good track and ran multiple runs & felt like I was going backward.
Does anyone have input on "hardened" wheels that I have seen advertised?
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Post by alineperformance on Mar 28, 2007 10:34:32 GMT -7
Check a couple things before getting new wheels. Take a drill bit of the same diameter as the inside of your wheel and push it through the wheel but end first. This will push out any graphite that may have solidified inside the wheel (like compressed pencil lead). Then re lube and run again.
Also inspect the wheels for deformities in the bore and tread surface. Some deformities on the exterior may be smoothed out with fine sandpaper. Interior deformities will most likely render the wheels unusable.
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Post by docb on Mar 28, 2007 12:27:33 GMT -7
Good advise from A-line...Also I might add re-polishing the wheel bore as well. Then re-lubing as A-Line suggested..
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Post by Quillen Racing on Mar 28, 2007 13:56:38 GMT -7
In my limited experience (Strictly BSA cars), it seems that after a number of runs the car just gets slower - even when lubed/prepped in exactly the same way as in the beginning. I had access to a good track and ran multiple runs & felt like I was going backward. Does anyone have input on "hardened" wheels that I have seen advertised? How do you prep your axles? What kind of lube are you using?
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Post by Slow-Lane on Mar 28, 2007 14:24:35 GMT -7
I have used smooth axles (both BSA and the original nickel-plated ones from Hodges-now WinDerby) and Hob-E-Lube. I have used straight perpendicular and slightly canted axle orientation.
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