Car setup questions

[jeffkin15]

I'm brand new to this board. I've done ok the past 2 years (6th in pack / 1st in sibling 2 years ago, 3rd in pack / 2nd in sibling last year) using the stock parts from the kit with some TLC but I want to step it up this year and win it all.

Our pack has some overlays which limit some of what I would like to do:

• Axles must be placed in the original ‘axle groves’ in the supplied wooden block - no drilling new holes or extending the wheelbase.
  
• The axles may not be altered in any way except for polishing and removal of molding imperfections.
  
• Wheels must be full width. Wheels may not be tapered or re-formed so as to reduce the footprint of the wheel against the track surface. Wheel seams may be removed from the wheel, as described in the kit, providing that the preceding rules are not violated. No other modifications to wheels are permitted.
  
• Maximum length 7 1/4"
  

Rules are silent regarding wheels being flat on track and/or number of wheels touching.

I've purchased a set of Edge 2010 new BSA Pure Stockers and BSA Speed Axles from ___ since they seem to comply with the rules. I also purchased some bore polish which I've never tried before.

I cut the back 3/4" or so off the car and added to the front so I'm at the full 7/14" allowed. I have the front sloping up to make sure it doesn't hit in transition. I'll shoot for COM at 3/4" in front of rear axle.

I want to cant my back wheels but I can't drill new holes. Is there an easy way to can't the backs w/ the original axle groves? Does narrowing the front still apply if I don't cant the wheels?

Should I lift 1 front wheel so I'm only running 3?

Should I try to set it up for a railrunner? We use an 6-lane, aluminum track w/ center guide but I'm not sure the length. I've never tried this before - do I just bend the axle gently with pliers?

Any other ideas that will help?

[jeffkin15]

A scout is trustworthy...Just kidding. I might consider that next year but I don't own a drill press or the block and I'm running out of time.

I'm the derby chairman and in charge of the tech inspection so I could really get away with anything I want but I'm trying to do the right thing and win within the rules.

[Shade Racing]

did you get ___ polisih the axles you bought if not get the polisihing kit he sells & polisih axles & yes lift one of the frt.wheels

[jeffkin15]

I didn't have him polish them but I have sandpaper from 600 down to 12,000 grit so I figured that would be enough. I don't think I can order anything else and get it in time. Any other polishing compound you can recommend that I might be able to pick up locally?

Should I try to cant the back wheels using the original axle grooves or just run them level?

BTW - I'm going to try to use Krytox GPL 100 Oil this year. I've always used graphite in past so thought I would try something different. Any advice using this product?

[Shade Racing]

AFTER USING 12,000 GRIT, POLISH AXLES WITH BRASSO ON A PEACE OF SHAMIE WASH AXLES & WHEEL BORE WITH 93% ALCOHOL AFTER POLISHING, & BLOW AXLES & WHEEL BORE OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR ;I WOULD NOT TRY TO CANT WHEELS WITH SLOTS ONLY CANT WHEELS WITH AXLE HOLES DRILLED CANTED & I WOOD STAY WITH A GOOD GRAPHITE; OIL CAN BE TRICKY TO GO FAST

P.S. DON'T SAND AXLES MORE THAN 5 TO 10 SEC. WITH DRILL AT HIGH SPEED; SAME WITH THE BRASSO

[W Racing]

Always narrow the front.

The rears will have more weigh on them (Assuming a well designed COM :-) )

You want to keep the rears off the center rail.

Narrow both sides for a straight runner and just the one for a rail runner...