Post by Vacationland Racing on Jan 3, 2011 15:19:18 GMT -7
Hi All:
Happy New Year!
My son and I have been improving every year with our cars. We have been dominant in our pack, winning each of the last two years, but have had muted success at District's (4th last year and 27th two years ago).
This year we decided that we want to win!!
. Of the important and valuable things about going fast, I've pick all of them up here! So I want to lean on you guys some more, b/c i still have a lot to learn. I would ask if you could critique this years car design before we start building.
Important this to know about the rules first.
1. All four wheel have to sit flat on the track (i know this is not possible)
2. Can not purchase machine lathed wheels or axles. (didn't say I couldn't be given them...but I'll leave that to others)
3. BSA Wheels and axels (don't know how they could tell on the axels)
4. Dry lubricant only.
5. Old Wooden Track at Pack and District's. We don't have a state race.
6. 12 heats for Pack Race including finals (but this may change) and 3 to 6 anticipated for District's.
Given these important factors, better know as impediments to speed, I have come up with the following thing to do the car to make is as fast as possible:
1. CAR BODY DESIGN - Stringray low profile design (see attached). I will narrow the front of the car 1/16".
2. AXLE HOLES - Block drilled axel holes (all straight - remember four on the floor) using a proxxon drill and a carbide #44 bit.
3. COM - between 5/8" and 3/4" (used 5/8" last year...car was a little squirley) using a cut out under the car and tungsten cubes. I hope the body is light enough to add 3.5 to 3.7 ounces of weight between the tungsten and tungsten putty.
5. BSA axels - polished using the DDFH sub 3 kit (50,000 grit) kit and finished with DDFH zero friction polish as the last step. NOTE: NOT SURE IF THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE OR DIFFERENT TO DO>
6. WHEELS - Matched BSA Wheels sanded using 600 grit sandpaper on the exterior and finished with DDFH zero friction polish. NOTE: NOT SURE IF THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE OR DIFFERENT TO DO> DO I USE PIPE CLEANER TO POLISH THE INSIDE OR QTIP SHAFTS?
7. Hob-e lube or DDFH zero friction lube. Added similar to Glenn on the video.
8. ALIGNMENT- Tuned to run straight. Not sure here. seems like I could steer it into the middle strip if there is a benefit.
I am sure that I missed something and I am definately sure that I am off base on some things listed above, so please please help me get i right.
Thanks...As always...You guys are the best in the world at this!
Rick
Happy New Year!
My son and I have been improving every year with our cars. We have been dominant in our pack, winning each of the last two years, but have had muted success at District's (4th last year and 27th two years ago).
This year we decided that we want to win!!
. Of the important and valuable things about going fast, I've pick all of them up here! So I want to lean on you guys some more, b/c i still have a lot to learn. I would ask if you could critique this years car design before we start building.Important this to know about the rules first.
1. All four wheel have to sit flat on the track (i know this is not possible)
2. Can not purchase machine lathed wheels or axles. (didn't say I couldn't be given them...but I'll leave that to others)
3. BSA Wheels and axels (don't know how they could tell on the axels)
4. Dry lubricant only.
5. Old Wooden Track at Pack and District's. We don't have a state race.
6. 12 heats for Pack Race including finals (but this may change) and 3 to 6 anticipated for District's.
Given these important factors, better know as impediments to speed, I have come up with the following thing to do the car to make is as fast as possible:
1. CAR BODY DESIGN - Stringray low profile design (see attached). I will narrow the front of the car 1/16".
2. AXLE HOLES - Block drilled axel holes (all straight - remember four on the floor) using a proxxon drill and a carbide #44 bit.
3. COM - between 5/8" and 3/4" (used 5/8" last year...car was a little squirley) using a cut out under the car and tungsten cubes. I hope the body is light enough to add 3.5 to 3.7 ounces of weight between the tungsten and tungsten putty.
5. BSA axels - polished using the DDFH sub 3 kit (50,000 grit) kit and finished with DDFH zero friction polish as the last step. NOTE: NOT SURE IF THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE OR DIFFERENT TO DO>
6. WHEELS - Matched BSA Wheels sanded using 600 grit sandpaper on the exterior and finished with DDFH zero friction polish. NOTE: NOT SURE IF THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE OR DIFFERENT TO DO> DO I USE PIPE CLEANER TO POLISH THE INSIDE OR QTIP SHAFTS?
7. Hob-e lube or DDFH zero friction lube. Added similar to Glenn on the video.
8. ALIGNMENT- Tuned to run straight. Not sure here. seems like I could steer it into the middle strip if there is a benefit.
I am sure that I missed something and I am definately sure that I am off base on some things listed above, so please please help me get i right.
Thanks...As always...You guys are the best in the world at this!
Rick
