Post by rsyck on Jun 26, 2010 10:01:35 GMT -7
Nationals over 
so back to the lab 
Any suggestions on the best wheel base for stock class. My son will be building one car so COM will be 3/4 - more forgiving. I will try 5/16 for my car. 1 grams wheels, 91 axles, graphite on 3/4 and oil on 1/2. Both cars will be 1/4-5/16 planks. Rears 2-3 neg, front bent 3-5 positive.
The cars are for testing for next years 2011 (March) BSA racing on a Best Track. We would like to have cars ready for later summer and fall racing with PDDR
Could anyone help with the weight on fenders. I made a mold to make 4 using West Systems micro balloons and the 4 came out to 3 grams. Might balsa be lighter? The cars will be built so that the weight of the fenders can be removed, lead tape, when the fenders are added in the future so that we do not need to build complete new cars.
It looks like you need to go sub 2.94's
before you should start looking for additional speed by removing parasitic drag. . .adding wheel coverings. . . about right? 
Has anyone drilled the FDW with some toe and pos cant. Say 2 deg positive cant and 1 deg toe as a starting point using the block then making up the difference needed using an axle bent 1.5 - 2.5 deg.
My son and I do not need to reinvent the wheel to get faster just duplicate what the winners are doing then begin experimenting from there.
Any and all suggestion are appreciated
Thanks,
Kai and Rod
so back to the lab 
Any suggestions on the best wheel base for stock class. My son will be building one car so COM will be 3/4 - more forgiving. I will try 5/16 for my car. 1 grams wheels, 91 axles, graphite on 3/4 and oil on 1/2. Both cars will be 1/4-5/16 planks. Rears 2-3 neg, front bent 3-5 positive.
The cars are for testing for next years 2011 (March) BSA racing on a Best Track. We would like to have cars ready for later summer and fall racing with PDDR
Could anyone help with the weight on fenders. I made a mold to make 4 using West Systems micro balloons and the 4 came out to 3 grams. Might balsa be lighter? The cars will be built so that the weight of the fenders can be removed, lead tape, when the fenders are added in the future so that we do not need to build complete new cars.
It looks like you need to go sub 2.94's
before you should start looking for additional speed by removing parasitic drag. . .adding wheel coverings. . . about right? 
Has anyone drilled the FDW with some toe and pos cant. Say 2 deg positive cant and 1 deg toe as a starting point using the block then making up the difference needed using an axle bent 1.5 - 2.5 deg.
My son and I do not need to reinvent the wheel to get faster just duplicate what the winners are doing then begin experimenting from there.
Any and all suggestion are appreciated
Thanks,
Kai and Rod
