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Post by Vodka Racing on Dec 18, 2009 21:07:09 GMT -7
Oldest boys last year and was hoping to win at District after finishing 3rd last year but skeptical now. Our District is now run under a new team with stricter rules.
There's no mention the wheelbase between 4.25" and 4.5" cannot be shifted so thats a plus. I don't see using the Block since the axles would still sit in a drilled hole even after slotting from hole to hole. The new wheels can be used but not sure I'd risk removing the double step.
Here's the rules as written in the pdf that concern me... 4) Axles and wheels must be those provided in the "Official Grand Prix Pinewood Derby" kit. Axles may have the flashing removed at the head only. No altered axles or grooving or reshaping of the axle head allowed. No aftermarket axles are allowed. No car may ride on any type of spring.
5) All four car wheels must touch the track and support the vehicle.
6) The wheelbase of the car (defined as the dimension from the centerline of the rear axle to the centerline of the front axle) will be between 4.25" and 4.5". Axles will be inserted in SLOTTED axle wells and not DRILLED holes.
11) After the racing is finished, ALL OF THE WINNING CARS WILL HAVE AT LEAST ONE WHEEL AND AXLE REMOVED AT THE RACE STEWARDS CHOICE TO VERIFY NO ILLEGAL MODIFICATION OR PARTS. If found in violation, the car will be disqualified and the next car will move up. If you are near the top of your race class, please stay until the end, but remember the Scout Law, "A SCOUT IS TRUSTWORTHY."
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Post by ACME Racing on Dec 18, 2009 21:51:14 GMT -7
If you use the BLOCK to drill canted holes and make a groove all the way to the holes your riding in the groove. If they pull an axle then all they will see is a groove with a hole at the end of the groove. It could be said that you simply cut the groove thinner than stock to hold your axle in. It doesn't say the axle groove has to be the width of the original. It just says a groove. Use a coping saw for a thin kerf.
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