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Post by Chimchim on Dec 13, 2009 10:22:00 GMT -7
Great forum! A few questions related to canting wheels.
1. If you are not planning on building a rail riding car, is there still an advantage to canting the wheels?
2. If there is an advantage, is there a good rule of thumb to follow for the amount of space to leave between the hub and the body of the car? Would this be the same amount of space if the wheels were not canted or do we want to allow more space?
3. In previous cars my kids and I have built, we drilled small pilot holes on the bottom of the car. This pilot holes allowed us to glue the axles in place so they would not shift after we finished our alignment. Is this recommended when canting the wheels? (We are using the Block to cant the rear wheels and have a right FDW, left raised).
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Post by ACME Racing on Dec 13, 2009 11:48:08 GMT -7
Great forum! A few questions related to canting wheels. 1. If you are not planning on building a rail riding car, is there still an advantage to canting the wheels? Yes. Less tread on the track. Less axle to hub contact. 2. If there is an advantage, is there a good rule of thumb to follow for the amount of space to leave between the hub and the body of the car? Would this be the same amount of space if the wheels were not canted or do we want to allow more space? About 1/16 to start.3. In previous cars my kids and I have built, we drilled small pilot holes on the bottom of the car. This pilot holes allowed us to glue the axles in place so they would not shift after we finished our alignment. Is this recommended when canting the wheels? (We are using the Block to cant the rear wheels and have a right FDW, left raised). As long as your axles are tight you don't need to lock the axles. This is because your axles are strait by using the BLOCK.If you already have one wheel raised why not build a rail runner?
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Post by Chimchim on Dec 13, 2009 22:16:10 GMT -7
Well, I think it might be overkill for this race plus we don't really have track to test on. So I thought it might be easier just to build 3 wheeler that runs straight.
If I changed my mind and decided to build rail runner, would that change the recommended spacing we'd use between the hub and body of the car. I found the video below on Youtube. Although they are bending the axles (versus drilling canted axle holes), the video suggests that the rear wheel behind the front dominant wheel needs a little extra room so it stays off the rail:
Is this a recommended practice followed by the pros?
Thanks!
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Post by ACME Racing on Dec 13, 2009 22:38:10 GMT -7
Space the gap the same both ways. Depending on the axles you use you can't get too much gap on the rear behind the dom front wheel. Build a rail runner because you ain't going to steer that car strait. Your running 3 wheels so steer that front wheel into the rail. You don't need a track to do it. If all of this is over kill than what's the point? Do you want to loose by and inch or win an by a car length? PS: If you try to build a strait runner then you have to still get those back wheels off the rails anyway. Cant the rears, steer the front and win the race.
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Post by W Racing on Dec 14, 2009 1:22:32 GMT -7
Well, I think it might be overkill for this race plus we don't really have track to test on. So I thought it might be easier just to build 3 wheeler that runs straight. If I changed my mind and decided to build rail runner, would that change the recommended spacing we'd use between the hub and body of the car. I found the video below on Youtube. Although they are bending the axles (versus drilling canted axle holes), the video suggests that the rear wheel behind the front dominant wheel needs a little extra room so it stays off the rail: Is this a recommended practice followed by the pros? Thanks! You will have only flustration trying to align a car with bent rear axles. Folow the instructions here and you will be setup like the pros: pddr.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=2404
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Post by ACME Racing on Dec 14, 2009 5:33:55 GMT -7
In your first post you say you have the BLOCK. Use the pin provided and drill your rear axle holes at an angle. ;D If you want to drill your holes strait and bend your rear axles go right a head.
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Post by Chimchim on Dec 14, 2009 11:04:14 GMT -7
We are using the BLOCK to drill angled axle holes in the rear of the car. I was just noting that the video is using a different technique (and different product) for canting the wheels. I wasn't sure if this made a difference for spacing between hub and body.
Thanks
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Post by Chimchim on Dec 14, 2009 11:20:27 GMT -7
@w Racing
I viewed your post. Very insightful but had a couple of questions.
1. I followed most of the post but you lost me with some of the terminology and acronyms. What is CoalCar and ClearWater mean? What does COM stand for? Sorry, I am rookie.
2. We built couple of cars for both my boys but we drilled the FDW straight versus the positive cant you suggest (followed Glenn's Youtube video). What does advantages does the positive give the car and how does one accurately bend the axle 3-4 degrees?
Thanks!
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Post by W Racing on Dec 14, 2009 12:06:28 GMT -7
@w Racing I viewed your post. Very insightful but had a couple of questions. 1. I followed most of the post but you lost me with some of the terminology and acronyms. What is CoalCar and ClearWater mean? What does COM stand for? Sorry, I am rookie. 2. We built couple of cars for both my boys but we drilled the FDW straight versus the positive cant you suggest (followed Glenn's Youtube video). What does advantages does the positive give the car and how does one accurately bend the axle 3-4 degrees? Thanks![/quote You want to cant the rears and leave the axles straight :-) CoalCar and Clearwater are two of my Pure Stock cars. You need their stter number to make your car tuned... COM is the balance point of the finished car in front of the rear axle. Distance from axle to balance point... Drill the FDW straight. i should clarify that in my post... To bend place scrap wheel on axle and mark with sharpee Chuck axles in drill and use 1/8" round file to make groove as axle spins. Polish axle before continuing. Place flat head screw driver in groove (while axle in drill or vice) Gently tap with hammer. A small amount. Do you have accurate calipers?
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Post by Chimchim on Dec 14, 2009 12:48:40 GMT -7
Thanks for the clarification. I don't have calipers. Do you recommend a particular brand/model?
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Post by W Racing on Dec 14, 2009 14:37:23 GMT -7
You need to measure something. 0.091 etc..,
on the box it will say 0.0005
Likely all digital caliber are like this?
I just picked up a new set and they read in fractional inches as well as decimal.
Very nice for measuring the car body after shaving 1/16 of the Dfw side.
Also works for axles
Fractional inches is anice to have. Purchased at local owned HW store...
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Post by psycaz on Dec 14, 2009 15:03:56 GMT -7
My only suggestion would be to make sure to look at models that have the slide come ot the end when you open the digital calipers.
This will allow you to easily measure depths of things like weight pockets.
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