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Post by Goat Boy on Nov 27, 2009 11:35:41 GMT -7
I have started building for the 2010 season and have come across a small problem. My body is around 3/8" thick but my round weight is about 1/16" - 1/8" thicker than my body. I want my weight to be flush with the top of my body but can not let it stick out the bottom due to the 1/4" center rail clearance. I was wondering if I could use a wood filler and build up around the weight or would I have trouble with that amount of filler? Anyone have any ideas I could try? I appreciate any help.
Ian
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Post by W Racing on Nov 27, 2009 12:40:32 GMT -7
I have started building for the 2010 season and have come across a small problem. My body is around 3/8" thick but my round weight is about 1/16" - 1/8" thicker than my body. I want my weight to be flush with the top of my body but can not let it stick out the bottom due to the 1/4" center rail clearance. I was wondering if I could use a wood filler and build up around the weight or would I have trouble with that amount of filler? Anyone have any ideas I could try? I appreciate any help. Ian What height did you drill the rear axle holes?
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Post by Goat Boy on Nov 27, 2009 13:10:56 GMT -7
I drill my holes about .300" from bottom of block. That should put my clearance at about .300" also. Can I ask why you question it?
Ian
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Nov 27, 2009 13:57:40 GMT -7
I have started building for the 2010 season and have come across a small problem. My body is around 3/8" thick but my round weight is about 1/16" - 1/8" thicker than my body. I want my weight to be flush with the top of my body but can not let it stick out the bottom due to the 1/4" center rail clearance. I was wondering if I could use a wood filler and build up around the weight or would I have trouble with that amount of filler? Anyone have any ideas I could try? I appreciate any help. Ian I use Evercoat Metal Glaze. It's a polyester finishing and blending putty. Kinda/sorta like "Bondo" only spreads smoother & creamy. Virtually no pinholes or bubbles, sands very smooth to a nice feather- edge. Takes paint like a dream!
Because it has a cream hardener it is ready to shape & sand in 30 mins. Just scuff/score the area so the filler has something to grab on to.
It is heavier than wood filler, so adjust your trim weight accordingly.
Good Luck
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Post by W Racing on Nov 27, 2009 14:09:03 GMT -7
I drill my holes about .300" from bottom of block. That should put my clearance at about .300" also. Can I ask why you question it? Ian If it is for PDDR and you center the disc you can let it hang low: CoalCar is .25" thick and has a 4.1 ounce disc that hangs down about .25 inches... However it is likely lower that 0.25 inches. Fast sugggest metal glaze which should work great...
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Post by Goat Boy on Nov 27, 2009 14:19:26 GMT -7
Thank you both for the replies. I will give the metal glaze a try. I need a very little amount so the weight should be very little factor but i will be sure to adjust. Happy holidays guys.
Ian
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Post by W Racing on Nov 27, 2009 16:24:20 GMT -7
I drill my holes about .300" from bottom of block. That should put my clearance at about .300" also. Can I ask why you question it? Ian One other thought. If you drill the holes at say 5/32" the problem would go away as well.
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Post by ACME Racing on Nov 27, 2009 16:34:26 GMT -7
It won't hit a thing on the PDDR track. Don't worry about it. Set if flush with the top and let it hang down. If you want to taper the front edge for aerodynamics then you can use some Bondo or even some clear packing tape.
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Post by Goat Boy on Nov 28, 2009 7:44:59 GMT -7
Thanks again guys. I will do my best to use one of the products and see how it goes.
Ian
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