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Post by Extreme Racing on Mar 11, 2009 18:57:50 GMT -7
Pack rule is 4 wheel touching, they do a roll test to check.
Question I have, if you are setting car to run straight. Do you still take 1/16 off the front of the car?
If so, which one then
Just one side?
Both Sides?
Another question
Would you make the axles holes higher in the front and make the rear axle holes lower?
Thanks in advance
Extreme
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Post by Bones on Mar 11, 2009 19:19:04 GMT -7
I would drill all four holes at the same height, cant them the same and narrow the front of the car 1/16 on both sides. Hope this helps.
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Post by Paradise Racing on Apr 24, 2009 17:36:08 GMT -7
2Fast4U posted a reply about this same question in another thread.
He said...
narrow the front of the car, so it is right at 1 & 3/4 of an inch...
If your rules allow then make it about 1 & 11/16 of an inch...
put the cg's at about 1 to 1 1/4 inches in front of the rear axle...
make the car roll straight...
then beaker boys racing posted something about enlarging the bore or the non-dominant front wheel.
My question is this...if I set the alignment to run straight should I can't all four wheels?
Thanks
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Post by W Racing on Apr 24, 2009 18:01:33 GMT -7
Extreme,
The reason you narrow the front is that there is much more weight on the rear wheels and you want to keep them from touching the track. :-)
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Post by Paradise Racing on Apr 24, 2009 19:43:43 GMT -7
Reply -
Thanks W. I understand the narrowing of the front and if I do say so myself, have gotten fairly good at rail ridding.
In the past, when my son or I competed in a race that required all four wheels to touch, we still set them up to rail ride. We did not bore out the hub of the non-dominant front wheel. We simply narrowed the front and bent the front dominant axle to steer the car to the rail. Our theory was it would keep the rear wheels from touching the center strip and it would run straight. This has worked well for us in the past.
However, when I read one of Glenn or Dave's posts, I kind of treat it as gospel. They are very helpful and truthful. There advice saves us months of testing. After all, we have plenty of other things to test.
If I don't hear back from Glenn, and I believe I will, I would guess he would say to can't the rear wheels at a minimum and adjust the front wheels to steer the car straight. I just don't know if I should start out by setting the Block to drill all four holes with a can't.
Thanks
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Post by Bones on Apr 25, 2009 5:47:05 GMT -7
I drill the rear axle holes canted and the front straight. Then when I bend the DFW axle to steer I put the bend down so I get pos. camber on the front.
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Post by W Racing on Apr 25, 2009 6:53:13 GMT -7
Bones,
Does this work with four wheels touching...
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Post by Bones on Apr 25, 2009 7:37:04 GMT -7
Yes it does. The non dom wheel can have the axle bent slightly less then the dom. The dom wheel now takes most of the weight but the non dom still touches the track. Then just tune them for steering. I make my adjustments by first only installing the FDW and tune it to where I want it, then add the non-DFW and adjust it so it doesn't change the drift I established with only the FDW
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Post by W Racing on Apr 25, 2009 7:46:47 GMT -7
Bones, Very cool! Thanks so much!  |
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Post by 2FAST4U on Apr 25, 2009 16:52:37 GMT -7
Reply - Thanks W. I understand the narrowing of the front and if I do say so myself, have gotten fairly good at rail ridding. In the past, when my son or I competed in a race that required all four wheels to touch, we still set them up to rail ride. We did not bore out the hub of the non-dominant front wheel. We simply narrowed the front and bent the front dominant axle to steer the car to the rail. Our theory was it would keep the rear wheels from touching the center strip and it would run straight. This has worked well for us in the past. However, when I read one of Glenn or Dave's posts, I kind of treat it as gospel. They are very helpful and truthful. There advice saves us months of testing. After all, we have plenty of other things to test. If I don't hear back from Glenn, and I believe I will, I would guess he would say to can't the rear wheels at a minimum and adjust the front wheels to steer the car straight. I just don't know if I should start out by setting the Block to drill all four holes with a can't. Thanks Here I am. well there are alot of new theories out there and truths and alot of new ways to try. I still like to narrow the front and steer the car straight and or give it a little steer to the rail. by doing this you can get way aggressive with your weight and cg's... I would cant the rear wheels and try this, set the front up with poss can. but use The Block's canting system instead of bending the front axles.  there are endless ways to set up your car and try with the block. I have not even tried a tenth of them... |
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Post by Bones on Apr 25, 2009 17:28:46 GMT -7
You can't go wrong listening to Glenn, I told you what I've done but look at the results. Glenn isn't called 2FAST4U for nothing!
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Post by Paradise Racing on Apr 25, 2009 19:05:13 GMT -7
This is why everyone loves this site and PDDR. All the builders helping each other. It's awesome. One more question for anyone that would like to chime in.
How do you determine which front wheel is "naturally" dominant when you have four wheels touching? I know that I can force one to be dominant by having it steer the car to the rail, but if I set them both to run straight in the beginning, how would you choose which one you would have steer the car?
Thanks
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Post by ACME Racing on Apr 25, 2009 23:20:39 GMT -7
Simply by rolling it on a smooth level surface. If it rolls strait as an arrow then take tour pick. If it turns at all then that would determine your natural dominate wheel.
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