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Mold #s
Jan 3, 2009 18:02:34 GMT -7
Post by Beakerboys Racing on Jan 3, 2009 18:02:34 GMT -7
Had our second workshop today and I had purchase a dozen extra BSA kits for "just in case" situations.
I poured them all out this morning and separated wheels and axles to bag them and got to looking at mold #s.
I had everything from #3 to #18. I was even able to mold match 4 or 5 sets.
What mold #s seem to be the best?
Just curious.
Scott
Beakerboys
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Mold #s
Jan 3, 2009 19:12:30 GMT -7
Post by Cecil B. Deluxe on Jan 3, 2009 19:12:30 GMT -7
Had our second workshop *** TODAY *** and I had purchase a dozen extra BSA kits for "just in case" situations. I poured them all out this morning and separated wheels and axles to bag them and got to looking at mold #s. I had everything from #3 to #18. I was even able to mold match 4 or 5 sets. What mold #s seem to be the best? Just curious. Scott Beakerboys I also would like to hear from others on this. I have heard that 18's are the worst. So send LA all of your 18's for him to race with this season.  |
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Mold #s
Jan 3, 2009 19:26:11 GMT -7
Post by Paradise Racing on Jan 3, 2009 19:26:11 GMT -7
First, it depends on how you are going to prep your wheels. many of the "defects" found in the molds can be removed when you are truing the outside, lightning, etc. The one part of the wheel that you can't do a ton with if a defect is present is the bore. So I choose the mold number that I think has the best bore.
2. I have used several different mold numbers to make very fast cars.
C. I have not won at PDDR yet so take this for what it is worth.
iv. I like mold number 8.
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Mold #s
Jan 3, 2009 19:36:20 GMT -7
Post by Carolina Gravity Sports on Jan 3, 2009 19:36:20 GMT -7
I like # 2's, # 7's.  I have 2 set's of # 10's. I haven't tried # 10's yet. I'm going to try them on the new Pure Stocker. ;D My Firebird is running # 17's and it runs very well, Ying Yang is running # 2's. I have 1 set of # 2's I'm saving for Satchafunkilus in April.  |
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Mold #s
Jan 3, 2009 22:00:41 GMT -7
Post by Vodka Racing on Jan 3, 2009 22:00:41 GMT -7
Did you mix them, 2s on front, 7s on rears? |
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Mold #s
Jan 3, 2009 23:04:47 GMT -7
Post by 2FAST4U on Jan 3, 2009 23:04:47 GMT -7
Here is My oppion...  when you take a set of wheels and cnc or lathe turn them and center bore the hubs, to me it does not matter about the mold # matching mold number wheels came from builders taking a set of wheels and hand sanding them to clean up the mold castings... they found out that some mold number wheels spin better than others... so they started mold matching.... along comes the lathe and cnc machine and wheel manufactures and sellers... they mold matched the wheels to make the builders feel better that they where getting something, a mold match set of speed wheels... yes i do it as well, because that is what the public wants... most of my pure-stock cars do not have mold match wheels on them, in fact my limited car speed 1 that ran at blue grass and won, dose not have mold match wheels... there are some Numbers that produce bad wobbles. I have seen # 18's, # 2's, # 3's, # 9's be the worst for this... If I get a bad wobble wheel it does not make it to the lathe... they get used other ways... if you guys like number 7's let me know I do not like them as much... but i can still make them fast... they are the new number 18 mold markings with the big ribs... yes mood they come with steak sause...  any way I hope this helps... Glenn |
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Post by Carolina Gravity Sports on Jan 4, 2009 4:47:04 GMT -7
While we are on the subject of mold #'s and such, I noticed that one of the sets of #10 wheels that I have look as if they are deformed. I looks as if the plastic didn't flow very well in the mold and caused the wheels to look rough on the outer part of the wheel. The area that has the BSA lettering and the spokes. Should this cause any problems?  They just don't look as good as a normal wheel. I have seen these before in wheels that come out of a scout kit but not aftermarket wheels. |
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Post by Shade Racing on Jan 4, 2009 9:58:11 GMT -7
look on MAX V's web site he has a chart of all the flaws of mold #'s
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Mold #s
Jan 4, 2009 10:13:16 GMT -7
Post by 2FAST4U on Jan 4, 2009 10:13:16 GMT -7
While we are on the subject of mold #'s and such, I noticed that one of the sets of #10 wheels that I have look as if they are deformed. I looks as if the plastic didn't flow very well in the mold and caused the wheels to look rough on the outer part of the wheel. The area that has the BSA lettering and the spokes. Should this cause any problems? They just don't look as good as a normal wheel. I have seen these before in wheels that come out of a scout kit but not aftermarket wheels. it should not hurt the performance of the wheel... |
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Mold #s
Jan 4, 2009 11:44:05 GMT -7
Post by Cecil B. Deluxe on Jan 4, 2009 11:44:05 GMT -7
when you take a set of wheels and cnc or lathe turn them and center bore the hubs, to me it does not matter about the mold # Glenn Do you re -bore the the hubs for the "edge" line of pure stock wheels? |
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Mold #s
Jan 4, 2009 14:54:57 GMT -7
Post by 2FAST4U on Jan 4, 2009 14:54:57 GMT -7
when you take a set of wheels and cnc or lathe turn them and center bore the hubs, to me it does not matter about the mold # Glenn Do you re -bore the the hubs for the "edge" line of pure stock wheels? yes, they get a light bore to true them up... so they mount on the tool I use... so they set square... |
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They just don't look as good as a normal wheel. I have seen these before in wheels that come out of a scout kit but not aftermarket wheels.
