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Post by FBC Racer on Mar 1, 2008 20:39:18 GMT -7
new to all this and just wondering exactly what steps to take to make a car ride rail
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Post by A-Line Performance on Mar 3, 2008 16:20:46 GMT -7
The theory is to have a slight turn in the alignment so that the car turns into the rail instead of bouncing back and forth. This helps the car track a bit smoother. Shimmy is for the dance floor and not for the derby track!
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Post by JETTWASH on Mar 7, 2008 11:15:15 GMT -7
This is an excerpt from what The [glow=red,2,300][/glow]JOKERsent me when I was having trouble with railriding. The Joker was one of the best builders on this site for a long time so I send you his expertise... I hope it helps
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Post by sporty on Dec 9, 2008 23:32:24 GMT -7
i have debated alot in the past several months inside my my mind onto try and do a rail rider.
I have not really gone into this, because we are so fast here in the area already. not sure not as fast as you speed demons.
But we run on a wooden track, 32 footer, wooden (pentosi).
Since I have read that the impact seems less on a wooden track versus metal.
And our council runs alot of wooden tracks and a old wooden one for the finals.
I also use a older wooden track for testing.
I have wondered if anyone has just also shortened the width in the rear and also the front and with that, did it also reduce the number of rubs ? compared to a normal width block ?
Or narrowing the front on both sides and not the back. would this have just as good of a impact over a rail rider ?
But mostly the biggest worry and issues on the track we run on, are the track joints where the rails come together.
Aside from a metal, track. Is there really a much smaller percentage of success with rail riding on wooden tracks ?`
Sporty
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Post by Quillen Racing on Dec 10, 2008 13:01:38 GMT -7
i have debated alot in the past several months inside my my mind onto try and do a rail rider. I have not really gone into this, because we are so fast here in the area already. not sure not as fast as you speed demons. But we run on a wooden track, 32 footer, wooden (pentosi). Since I have read that the impact seems less on a wooden track versus metal. And our council runs alot of wooden tracks and a old wooden one for the finals. I also use a older wooden track for testing. I have wondered if anyone has just also shortened the width in the rear and also the front and with that, did it also reduce the number of rubs ? compared to a normal width block ? Or narrowing the front on both sides and not the back. would this have just as good of a impact over a rail rider ? But mostly the biggest worry and issues on the track we run on, are the track joints where the rails come together. Aside from a metal, track. Is there really a much smaller percentage of success with rail riding on wooden tracks ?` Sporty In my opinion, in league racing where overall time determines the winner, the major benefit to Rail-Hugging is consistency. In Pack/District scout races, where you use double elimination, flat out speed is the key. In theory, and all things being equal, a car that would run straight would be faster if it never touched the rail. 4 years ago, my son had a car jump the rail on the final run due to poor track conditions, the car finished second. On a wooden track that is in poor condition, I would build a straight runner and take my chances. In most every other case, I would Rail-Hug. (Your results may vary).
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Post by JOKER on Dec 11, 2008 15:05:43 GMT -7
This is why it is faster:
* Perhaps it is not faster - but it will be more consistent. * once in a while the straight aligned car may have that perfect run where it rarely touches the rail & will win a heat against the RH. * but if you have 6 runs between a good RH & a good straight aligned car - The RH will come out on top. * Think of it like this - the RH gives added stability to your car & will run in a straight line to the finish line - Even though it rubs on the rail - it is only from the DFW which is the lightest part of the car - very minimal energy loss. * Even the best straight aligned car is going to bump the rail a few times during each run - each bump from this type of car results in a greater energy loss - because it hits the rear wheels also where your car is heavier and will have more breaking action - also the drifting back & forth results in a longer distance to the finish line - rather than the straight path of the RH!
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