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Post by KB Racing on Nov 11, 2008 4:38:14 GMT -7
Hey Guys I have 2 cars just about done both have been painted. the one car i coverd up the body by the wheel hub when I painted so its bare wood next to wheel. The other I put a nail in axel hole and just painted the car. I have 2 questions: 1. Whats the best way to paint or not paint the area by the wheels? 2. Need tips or secrets should I graphite this area / nail polish / wax, what is best method?
thanks KB
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Post by KB Racing on Nov 11, 2008 11:16:39 GMT -7
is this classified info?
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Post by Fat Boy on Nov 11, 2008 11:33:15 GMT -7
maybe some of our champs will chime in here ! i can tell you i have tried raw wood and paint and i seem to have better results with paint in that area. i then wax it and apply graphite with my fingers prior to installing the axles. this comes from some one who has not cracked the top 5 yet ! so consider the source
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Post by Carolina Gravity Sports on Nov 11, 2008 11:45:59 GMT -7
I make sure the paint/clear coat is good and smooth in that area.
If the car is going to run oil, I leave it like it is. If the car is to run graphite, then I'll rub it down good with graphite. I used WS2 on the hub area on my latest stocker and it seemed to work ok too.
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Post by Beakerboys Racing on Nov 11, 2008 12:32:17 GMT -7
Hey Guys I have 2 cars just about done both have been painted. the one car i covered up the body by the wheel hub when I painted so its bare wood next to wheel. The other I put a nail in axle hole and just painted the car. I have 2 questions: 1. Whats the best way to paint or not paint the area by the wheels? 2. Need tips or secrets should I graphite this area / nail polish / wax, what is best method? thanks KB KB, There are many ways to address this. The first cars I built, I left that area bare and then rubbed graphite in. I found that after several races, that area on the body would become worn with a groove in it. I can't image that being good, as the deeper the groove gets, the more of a braking effect on the wheel. I then tried a product called EZ-Slide. It is a graphite paint that is used to paint on such things a the bottom of a lawn mower deck or between two metals that slide against each other. It sprayed on pretty good but dries rough. I then sanded lightly with fine paper and it was pretty slick. But after several runs, again, the grooves appeared. The paint has not strength to it. I then tried HVAC duct tape. the stuff that is real shinny. It works pretty good but, better than bare wood. May also be considered a washer in some divisions, so watch out. I have since painted the body hub area with a good hard paint. This seems to work the best and is the most durable. You can rub graphite on top of this area as well but will ruin a paint job. I have also heard of guys using finger nail polish as that dries pretty hard, just can't see getting the surface smooth and even with a brush. Also, in some advanced divisions, you can use Teflon washers. Some guys are using Teflon, or Delrin inserted into the body, just haven't figured out how to do this yet and get it to work right for me. I don't have a lathe so every thing I do is by hand, and I can't get the inserts shaped right nor have I found the right material other than solid rod which I can't drill a centered hole thru. The last Super Mod I built, I used a 3/16 Teflon ball that I drilled a hole thru, ground it down to half, then inserted on the axle and glued to the side of the body. This seems to work pretty good, but is only allowed in advance divisions such as Super Mod. It really boils down to personal preference, but if you are looking for an opinion, paint it! Hope this helps Scott Beakerboys
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Post by KB Racing on Nov 11, 2008 12:33:22 GMT -7
Thanks for the reply
What is ws2?
KB
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Post by KB Racing on Nov 11, 2008 12:42:20 GMT -7
THIS IS A ONE TIME AWANA RACE .ONCE YOU USE THAT CAR IT CANT BE USED AGAIN
KB
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Post by Da Pine Racing on Nov 11, 2008 16:59:51 GMT -7
Take some A/B epoxy. While mixing, put several puffs of Hobby lube into the mix (make a gray/silvery blob of a mix), insert a drill blank in the axle hole & smear the said mix around the drill blank/body area. Then take a block or any smooth material with a hole drilled into it slightly larger than the drill blank & slide it over the drill blank, smash and spin the block to flatten out the goo at certain intervals of drying to make it (the grayish goo) square & smooth to the drill blank.
Before each "smoothing"......puff some more graphite on the applied epoxy area and smash it in the the curing grayish goo each time.
When the epoxy sets,,,,,,,,you will have a very hard graphite surface that will not wear away. Not a champ but hope it helps.
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