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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Oct 3, 2007 9:52:38 GMT -7
I was trying to spray a car today with House of K. Neon Orange. I used a Gravity feed airbrush with 40PSI. I used Airbrush thinner by Testor to thin the paint.
WHen I was done spraying, the car's surface was all a powder residue, as If I were spraying sand on it. A lot rubbed off with my hand...I lightly rubbed it with 1000 grit, and a lot came off, some stayed on, and the base coat showed through a little.
Is this a problem with my techinque, or is it bad paint or bad prep?
Anyone know what caused this?
Thanks RC
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Post by PDDR on Oct 3, 2007 11:33:26 GMT -7
My guess whoudl be what you used to thin the paint. I would have used a reducer Hok RU311 instead of a thinner to thin the paint. Or my other guess would be that the paint was thinned to much and it was drying way quick before it touched the surface you were painting. This sometimes occurs when using an airbrush.
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Oct 3, 2007 12:43:05 GMT -7
So...First is:
Too thin = drying faster?
Second is...I didnt have any reducer, and there is no place near me to buy it...I have to order it online.
The whole is not like that, only parts, and I was always told to thin the paint a LOT when spraying with an air brush. For now I will let it dry sand it and try again.
The only reducer I have is that for clearcoat...I guess I could NOT use that huh? If not I'll either have to "patch" it up, or order the REAL reducer online and wait.
Thanks for the reply. RC
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Post by derbydoc on Oct 3, 2007 15:13:35 GMT -7
So...First is: Too thin = drying faster? Second is...I didnt have any reducer, and there is no place near me to buy it...I have to order it online. The whole is not like that, only parts, and I was always told to thin the paint a LOT when spraying with an air brush. For now I will let it dry sand it and try again. The only reducer I have is that for clearcoat...I guess I could NOT use that huh? If not I'll either have to "patch" it up, or order the REAL reducer online and wait. Thanks for the reply. RC Hey RC, here is the link to the ebay store that I get all of my HOK airbrush paint. It comes in 2 oz and 4 oz bottles that are already reduced. A 4oz bottle will last you a very long time. I used to have some of the house of kolor model paint and I think its actually an enamel. The ebay store has a "true fire" kit that they sell and it comes with white, yellow, orange, purple, black , apple red, and 2 or 3 other colors. It costs around $40 and its well worth it. search.stores.ebay.com/TCPGlobal-AutoBodyDepot_house-of-kolor_W0QQsaselZ5549674QQsofpZ0
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Oct 3, 2007 15:44:37 GMT -7
I was trying to spray a car today with House of K. Neon Orange. I used a Gravity feed airbrush with 40PSI. I used Airbrush thinner by Testor to thin the paint.WHen I was done spraying, the car's surface was all a powder residue, as If I were spraying sand on it. A lot rubbed off with my hand...I lightly rubbed it with 1000 grit, and a lot came off, some stayed on, and the base coat showed through a little. Is this a problem with my techinque, or is it bad paint or bad prep? Anyone know what caused this? Thanks RC RC, WAAAAAY to much air pressure. I shoot between 10-15 psi. The higher air pressure will "dry" the solvent before it hits the surface. Worse if you are shooting more than 10-12 inches from the surface.
Try lowering the air pressure AT THE airbrush to around 15psi. Shoot test panels !!!!
When you get comfortable with pattern,coverage etc.. THEN shoot the final surface.
Always shoot a test/scrap piece first. This helps you adjust fluid flow, pattern & AIR PRESSURE.
Much easier than sanding out mistakes....
[/size]
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Oct 3, 2007 18:14:26 GMT -7
So...First is: Too thin = drying faster? Second is...I didnt have any reducer, and there is no place near me to buy it...I have to order it online. The whole is not like that, only parts, and I was always told to thin the paint a LOT when spraying with an air brush. For now I will let it dry sand it and try again. The only reducer I have is that for clearcoat...I guess I could NOT use that huh? If not I'll either have to "patch" it up, or order the REAL reducer online and wait. Thanks for the reply. RC Hey RC, here is the link to the ebay store that I get all of my HOK airbrush paint. It comes in 2 oz and 4 oz bottles that are already reduced. A 4oz bottle will last you a very long time. I used to have some of the house of kolor model paint and I think its actually an enamel. The ebay store has a "true fire" kit that they sell and it comes with white, yellow, orange, purple, black , apple red, and 2 or 3 other colors. It costs around $40 and its well worth it. search.stores.ebay.com/TCPGlobal-AutoBodyDepot_house-of-kolor_W0QQsaselZ5549674QQsofpZ0Tory...I already ordered the reducer (311-medium) from them today.. While I was at it, I got a bottle of Chrome Yellow and Euro Red so that I can make some nice flames. Thanks for the link. RC
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Post by derbydoc on Oct 3, 2007 18:18:49 GMT -7
Those are both great colors. I like the passion pearl, limetime green, and tangelo pearl. It will last a long time with your airbrush. Ive actually been using that as my basecoats at times. It might not be the true purpose for it, but it works great.
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Oct 3, 2007 18:19:41 GMT -7
I was trying to spray a car today with House of K. Neon Orange. I used a Gravity feed airbrush with 40PSI. I used Airbrush thinner by Testor to thin the paint.WHen I was done spraying, the car's surface was all a powder residue, as If I were spraying sand on it. A lot rubbed off with my hand...I lightly rubbed it with 1000 grit, and a lot came off, some stayed on, and the base coat showed through a little. Is this a problem with my techinque, or is it bad paint or bad prep? Anyone know what caused this? Thanks RC RC, WAAAAAY to much air pressure. I shoot between 10-15 psi. The higher air pressure will "dry" the solvent before it hits the surface. Worse if you are shooting more than 10-12 inches from the surface.
Try lowering the air pressure AT THE airbrush to around 15psi. Shoot test panels !!!!
When you get comfortable with pattern,coverage etc.. THEN shoot the final surface.
Always shoot a test/scrap piece first. This helps you adjust fluid flow, pattern & AIR PRESSURE.
Much easier than sanding out mistakes....
[/size][/quote] Actually, I did try the test area...the powdery stuff came after the first 2 coats went on. I tried lower pressure, but paint would not come out, even though it was thinned. ANyway, I called the TPC place on Ebay when I placed my order for the proper reducer. THey guy there said that the Testor airbrush thinner was wrong....along with the high pressure. He said for now...until my order comes in....I can use the medium grade reducer that I was using on the horrible clear that I was using. He said that would work ok, and help it retaing the shine. My issue now is "reprepping" the surface before shooting, then figuring out why I cant shoot a gravity airbrush with 15PSI. I use low PSI on my stencil designs with Testor enamel, but I figured If Im shooting the WHOLE body I could "open it up" a little more since it is a wider area. Maybe I can open the gun and try lower PSI. As always, thanks for chiming in Rick! RC
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Oct 3, 2007 18:22:42 GMT -7
Those are both great colors. I like the passion pearl, limetime green, and tangelo pearl. It will last a long time with your airbrush. Ive actually been using that as my basecoats at times. It might not be the true purpose for it, but it works great. Ive been using a few of the HOK sprays from WALMART, and I also found 3-4 nice colors from a hobby shop of Testor "Master" line of sprays. I just think the sprays are so much more convenient, even though it costs more to use them. I cant wait to try the Yellow and red to make a nice flame using your great stencils!! RC
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Post by RimTek Racing on Jan 26, 2009 22:02:39 GMT -7
Where did you guys learn how to airbrush? I would love to learn i can draw so i want to know if it would be hard to do? just curious and did you guys learn from people or materials
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