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Post by Scruffy21 Racing on Aug 12, 2007 19:09:26 GMT -7
Can anyone explain their steps for polishing the clearcoat to a high gloss after all coats have been applied? I am afraid to ruin a finish since I am not sure of the proper way to polish.
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Aug 15, 2007 17:18:20 GMT -7
Can anyone explain their steps for polishing the clearcoat to a high gloss after all coats have been applied? I am afraid to ruin a finish since I am not sure of the proper way to polish. Well I was kinda hoping that the 'Paint Ninja' (David) or Hillbilly would chime in. Them being the acknowledged experts/professional and such..........
First let's get the legal disclaimer out of the way: I am not nor have I ever been a professional Painter. What works for me, may not for you. Experiment on test pieces- NEVER on the final car. Expect failure the first few trys ;D
Polishing the clear depends on what type of clear. Acrylic Lacquer uses different steps than 2 part catalyzed clear.
For Lacquer I like to let the whole paint 'cure' or outgass the solvent for 5-7 days. Depending on the amount of 'orange peel' determines what wet/dry grit you start with. If it's pretty smooth I start at 2000 grit. Lightly sand with wet paper till the surface has a smooth 'haze'.
Rinse /wipe with clean towel. Repeat until very smooth. Then I will hand buff with white rubbing compound. Then a machine glaze,like 3M Perfect-It 3 pn#05937, then a paint polish and finally a wax.
Be sure to wipe/clean away all residue between steps. Carefully look at clear under bright light to see surface shine between steps.
It's a lot of work to get the 2inch deep shine that the Paint Ninja is famous for.
The 2 part catalyzed clear ,for me, flows so smooth and glassy that all I ever have to do is polish then wax. Plus it cures hard as nails,lacquer only 'dries'. Spill any strong solvent on lacquer,and it will go soft. Cat clear chemical cures and is extremely solvent resistant. Won't yellow or fade either.
Hope this helps.........
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Post by Scruffy21 Racing on Jan 8, 2008 11:00:24 GMT -7
Thanks F.A.S.T.!!! Can I assume that all of your steps are done by hand? I use the 2 part catalyzed clear so I am hoping to only have to polish and wax. Can you recommend both a polish and wax that you have been happy with? Thanks.
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Apr 13, 2008 14:23:20 GMT -7
Thanks F.A.S.T.!!! Can I assume that all of your steps are done by hand? I use the 2 part catalyzed clear so I am hoping to only have to polish and wax. Can you recommend both a polish and wax that you have been happy with? Thanks. Sorry for not responding sooner......
For polishing I have been using 3M products.
If I've had to wet sand with 2000 grit I'll start with: 3M #06062 Perfect-It 3000 Rubbing Compound
Then go to a ultra-fine polishing compound, 3M #06068 Perfect-It 3000 Ultrafina SE polishing glaze
You could do this by hand, but like most Real Men I love Power Tools !!!!
Chuck this in a drill clamped in a vise. Polish at 1500-2000 rpm.
For wax I have used Zymol for years. Plus the coconut smell fits in with my Florida lifestyle
For less fuss with a beautiful shine Meguiar's #G12718 NXT- TechWax 2.0 is fantastic. Plus leaves no white residue.
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Post by Mayhem Miller on Apr 27, 2008 21:27:10 GMT -7
3M also makes a product called "imperial micro-finishing compound". It works great for buffing out minor scratches and any haze. Its course enough to smooth it out, but fine enough you dont have to worry about burning through.
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