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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Jul 1, 2007 12:31:21 GMT -7
Just to clarify...I have professional-grade auto clear that I got from a friend that is a professional auto painter. He gave me the clear, hardener and reducer that are all the same stuff he uses on cars.
When I sprayed some last week on a few cars...it "looked" as though it went on and looked like glass when finished. When it dryed however, there were hundreds of micro-bubbles under the clear coat.
Does anyone know what causes this and the best way to prevent it?
I use a gravity-feed sprayer, 2:1:10% ratio, 35-40 PSI and the nozzle set at halfway point (even mix of air and clear).
Im spraying in my garage with fans blowing out, the temp is about 85-90*.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks RC
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Post by P D D R 2 on Jul 1, 2007 16:10:29 GMT -7
Just to clarify...I have professional-grade auto clear that I got from a friend that is a professional auto painter. He gave me the clear, hardener and reducer that are all the same stuff he uses on cars. When I sprayed some last week on a few cars...it "looked" as though it went on and looked like glass when finished. When it dryed however, there were hundreds of micro-bubbles under the clear coat. Does anyone know what causes this and the best way to prevent it? I use a gravity-feed sprayer, 2:1:10% ratio, 35-40 PSI and the nozzle set at halfway point (even mix of air and clear). Im spraying in my garage with fans blowing out, the temp is about 85-90*. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks RC Oh oh, you have what they call "solvent pop"... you put to much on to fast... That is the thing about the new clears now days they all tend to solvent pop if you put to much on... I loved the old clears many years ago... You could just dump the stuff on coat after coat and never have a problem.. I dumped on 8 super heavy flow coats on a project and it layed out like glass... and it stayed that way forever..... Times have changed and now we have to work at it just to make it work..... Do you have a good filter for your air line? So I recommend that you sand it with 1000-1200 grit wet. Apply some more clear. Spray a light cover coat on the first coat then let it dry for 30 minutes then come back with a nice wet flow coat and you should have a very smooth finish. Try that ..... and then let me know......... ;D
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Jul 1, 2007 16:57:53 GMT -7
Just to clarify...I have professional-grade auto clear that I got from a friend that is a professional auto painter. He gave me the clear, hardener and reducer that are all the same stuff he uses on cars. When I sprayed some last week on a few cars...it "looked" as though it went on and looked like glass when finished. When it dryed however, there were hundreds of micro-bubbles under the clear coat. Does anyone know what causes this and the best way to prevent it? I use a gravity-feed sprayer, 2:1:10% ratio, 35-40 PSI and the nozzle set at halfway point (even mix of air and clear). Im spraying in my garage with fans blowing out, the temp is about 85-90*. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks RC Oh oh, you have what they call "solvent pop"... you put to much on to fast... That is the thing about the new clears now days they all tend to solvent pop if you put to much on... I loved the old clears many years ago... You could just dump the stuff on coat after coat and never have a problem.. I dumped on 8 super heavy flow coats on a project and it layed out like glass... and it stayed that way forever..... Times have changed and now we have to work at it just to make it work..... Do you have a good filter for your air line? So I recommend that you sand it with 1000-1200 grit wet. Apply some more clear. Spray a light cover coat on the first coat then let it dry for 30 minutes then come back with a nice wet flow coat and you should have a very smooth finish. Try that ..... and then let me know......... ;D Thanks David...I thought that the "too much too fast" was the cause, and I have already wet sanded it to a REALLY smooth finish... The questions/concerns now I have are the following: 1. Should I "scuff" the super smooth finish now before applying the clear.?? 2. I was giving it 10-12 minutes flash time, but now you say use about 30 minutes? Is that second coat a "go ahead and load it up coat? 3. When I put the first coat on, it goes on in little beads and stays like that...the beads dont connect for a "thin film" it stays looking like a mist all over it....I think that's why I was putting more on it after that...is that normal or is that doing something wrong? I have an inline filter, and I use a filter paper to strain the mixture also. Thanks for the help! RC
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Post by P D D R 2 on Jul 1, 2007 17:12:37 GMT -7
If you have already sanded it smooth them just make sure all of your sanding residue is off then go ahead and start clearing... You first coat of clear should cover the whole thing and be shinny but don't put to much on this coat just enough to make it smooth. Then wait 30 minutes then come back and put a wet coat on just enough so you don't run it.... There is a fine line between not enough and to much.... Practice and time will help you more here... Spraying a Urethane Clears what you see is what you get kinda of a thing... If it looks smooth then it should stay smooth... If it looks dry and rough it will stay dry and rough... Try and put on your clear coat in a 2 coat process and you should have good luck with them... I have found lately with the newer clears that if you wait 30+ minutes between coats I have better luck with them... I just got done Doing some more Paint for Emerson and I put on 4 coats of clear on .... but it took me some time but it sure turned out great.... "Patience is the best way to describe a great paint job...." ;D ;D ;D
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Jul 1, 2007 17:17:11 GMT -7
David, do you know what is accounting for the "beady" appearance when I put the first coat on? Is that just a case where it is not enough, instead of too much?
I thought the liquid clear would flow over so that the beads connect. I dont know if I need more reducer to thin it out, or just put more on it on the first coat.
Thanks RC
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Post by P D D R 2 on Jul 1, 2007 21:18:15 GMT -7
David, do you know what is accounting for the "beady" appearance when I put the first coat on? Is that just a case where it is not enough, instead of too much? I thought the liquid clear would flow over so that the beads connect. I don't know if I need more reducer to thin it out, or just put more on it on the first coat. Thanks RC Beady is sprayed on to light and that will cause it to not flow smooth and leave a texture... also thick paint will can cause that as well... also air pressure. It's like I said before takes time and practice to fine tune the art of spraying....
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Jul 2, 2007 4:06:37 GMT -7
David, do you know what is accounting for the "beady" appearance when I put the first coat on? Is that just a case where it is not enough, instead of too much? I thought the liquid clear would flow over so that the beads connect. I don't know if I need more reducer to thin it out, or just put more on it on the first coat. Thanks RC Beady is sprayed on to light and that will cause it to not flow smooth and leave a texture... also thick paint will can cause that as well... also air pressure. It's like I said before takes time and practice to fine tune the art of spraying.... The air pressure meaning too much or too little? I use about 35-40, but it is gravity feed, and it seems to come out ok. I will be trying a couple cars this Thursday. Thanks RC
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Sept 18, 2007 19:45:18 GMT -7
David, do you know what is accounting for the "beady" appearance when I put the first coat on? Is that just a case where it is not enough, instead of too much? I thought the liquid clear would flow over so that the beads connect. I dont know if I need more reducer to thin it out, or just put more on it on the first coat. Thanks RC A simple formula to remember is:
Orange peel is fluid adjustment Open fluid control knob about 1/8 - 1/4 turn
Run control is an air pressure adjustment If your getting a few runs/sags try upping the air pressure 5-10 pounds more.
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