|
Post by Young Guns on Dec 16, 2006 19:00:38 GMT -7
When ready to start sanding axles what steps are being taken.
I am starting out with a 300 grit. Put wheels in a drill and sanding (wet) at med speed for about 15 sec. working my way up to a micro-mesh 12000 grit.
I feel like I am missing a few steps along the way. I am not using Mothers or any other kind of polish. Should I be? If so, after what grit do you apply and how?
When wet sanding i am only using water. I heard to us ivy dish soap. But I am scared this will hurt my wheels.
|
|
|
Post by 2FAST4U on Dec 16, 2006 19:07:44 GMT -7
When ready to start sanding axles what steps are being taken. I am starting out with a 300 grit. Put wheels in a drill and sanding (wet) at med speed for about 15 sec. working my way up to a micro-mesh 12000 grit. I feel like I am missing a few steps along the way. I am not using Mothers or any other kind of polish. Should I be? If so, after what grit do you apply and how? When wet sanding i am only using water. I heard to us ivy dish soap. But I am scared this will hurt my wheels. are you sanding the axles, or want help on wheels...
|
|
|
Post by alineperformance on Dec 16, 2006 22:01:56 GMT -7
For the little I know about standard axles, I know to be careful not to sand too much away on the nail - just get the flaws out. Polishinig is most important and can be done with several methods: Jewlers rouge, pumace powder & water, tooth paste, auto polishing compound. Whatever you choose, try to get the surface mirror smooth. It also helps to finish your polishinig with your lube (burnish in some graphite).
|
|
|
Post by Young Guns on Dec 17, 2006 2:27:59 GMT -7
Thanks A-line Performance we will give the polish a try.
Can jewlers rouge, pumace powder& water, tooth paste or auto polish be used on wheels? I am looking for something to use on all wheel surfaces.
|
|
|
Post by alineperformance on Dec 17, 2006 9:19:42 GMT -7
Maximum Velocity and other vendors sell polish for wheel interior. I have yet to try those substances. May be that is why I haven't got a standard axle car to do great. I do know that burnishing in graphite to the interior of the wheel makes quite a difference in speed.
|
|
|
Post by Parrot Racing on Apr 21, 2007 5:29:31 GMT -7
what is this burnishing process
|
|
|
Post by alineperformance on Apr 21, 2007 8:15:38 GMT -7
I've seen a explaination on Doc Jobes's stuff that goes through the process in detail. You can read the paper by first going to winderby.com and then going to the lectures by Doc Jobe. The main thing is to press some graphite into the plastic using light pressure and at the same time polishing the interior of the axle hole with the graphite - or lube if you prefer. It's like mounting the wheels with graphite inside and rolling the car on the table 6-10 inches back and forth about 40 times under light pressure.
Hope that helps.
|
|
|
Post by King Of Hearts on Apr 21, 2007 8:35:07 GMT -7
|
|
|
Post by Fat Boy on Apr 21, 2007 13:48:09 GMT -7
lately ive been implementing buffalo leather for the last step. will see !. yet to be proven
|
|
|
Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Apr 21, 2007 17:36:27 GMT -7
lately ive been implementing buffalo leather for the last step. will see !. yet to be proven Haven't tried buffalo leather.........yet
I have been using Moose hide for the final polish. Really makes the axles shine like chrome.
|
|
|
Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Apr 21, 2007 20:02:47 GMT -7
I am NOT the best authority on the WHOLE PWD thingy as of now, but I DO know quite a bit about polishing in general. 1200 grit is going way overboard. If you take a piece of aluminum to a polishing shop..they NEVER go past 320...they let their machines and "cutting compounds" do the work. Since we dont have those powerful machines, we DO need to go a little further. Enough to get the imperfections out (as stated above) is to go to 320-400-600...then 800 or 1000 water sanding. Then you need TWO compounds..I use TWO different liquid compounds. Usually, you would use Tripoli and then white rouge. Tripoli will make the initial shine come through all the sanding marks, then the white rouge for the final shine. Jewelers rouge is even finer, but it is USELESS if the metal is not already fairly smooth and somewhat shiny. You can read the link below for some polishing tips. In the picture, you see How I take car of my car's engine bay. The above is how I achieved this...same principal with the axles. (standard BSA axles) POLISHING LINK: darkside351.tripod.com/mustang50world/id19.html
|
|
|
Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Apr 22, 2007 5:33:28 GMT -7
When I first started polishing axles, I too would stop at 600 grit wet. Then go to Wenol polishing cream. The axle was very shiny,I thought.
After talking with the members on PDDR, I tried going up to 3000grit wet. Then polishing with Wenol then Mothers Alum finaly Mothers Billet.
Looked at an axle done both ways under a 5x magnifing glass the difference is dramatic.
|
|
|
Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Apr 22, 2007 12:25:33 GMT -7
FAST.... part of that is "how well were the axles sanded with the courser grits"?
If you leave too big of scratches with the 220-320, then no matter how fine you get, those will still remain.
Having said that, I do believe you when you say that..Im sure the difference is dramatic... The question then becomes "how much difference on the track to the microscopic scratches make in performance.
I think by using your graphite and "breaking the wheels in" you may elminate the microscopic scratches a factor.
Good point though! RC
|
|
mrdeb
STOCK
[Mo0:0]
Posts: 53
|
Post by mrdeb on Feb 17, 2008 13:59:50 GMT -7
IF you really want a high shine then try rottenstone compound woodworkers use it to polish laquer finishes. leaves a high shine smooth finish. works great on axles. I start w/ 320 w/d then 400 w/d then 600 w/d clean axle after each step. then using a little water and a wood stick mix the powder into a slurry and apply while axle is in drill. axles come out very bright and smooth.
|
|
|
Post by race2win on Jul 4, 2008 12:42:32 GMT -7
Good stuff! We use Rottenstone as well. We never start very coarse though... we do a #0 file on ridges & burr, then harden in a tumbler with shot then slowly through 600 grit up to 5000 Then light chemicals Then back to the tumbler with rottenstone for 24 hours then cham & / or jewelers cloth with graphite to seal the deal Getting a shine and getting it low friction are not always the same thing... trust the microscope not the shine. We also have other alternatives that we use, it helps having a wife that is a jewelry artist, they have all the fun tools ;D
|
|