mrdeb
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Post by mrdeb on Feb 20, 2007 8:18:17 GMT -7
I hope this pic comes out. I am in the middle of building a car for upcoming Pack/District race on March 9th (have yet to lose a race in past 5 years either the other cars are not fast or my unconventional building methods are ??) pic is of car after I applied my body filler skim (fine sawdust mixed with polyurethane) just need to sand down and apply a mist of black primer then re sand. The sawdust/poly mix is lighter, cheaper and easier to work with than bondo. It's an old woodworkers trick to fill the open grain in certain woods like red oak. Surface comes out really s m o o t h. It fills any nd all surface imperfections. The axles prevent any wheel to body contact as well as wheel hub to body contact IMO Well I guess it just made a link. How does one post a pic on this site?? here is the code for the fix i applied above:
[center][img width=600 height=450 src="http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/Doug-in-the-woods/harleyrocker020.jpg width=600 height=450"][/center]
normal photo posting is:
[center][img]http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/Doug-in-the-woods/harleyrocker020.jpg width=600 height=450[/img][/center]
but if you notice in the first code there is that resized your photo so that if fit in the forum better. i have a photo image resizing program that told me that if i shrunk your photo down to those parameters it would keep the quality of your photograph.
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Post by Hillbilly Kustoms on Feb 20, 2007 9:11:30 GMT -7
You can also use wood glue mixed with sawdust and get the similar results, for cracks and pinholes in the wood I've mixed super glue with it which dries very quickly. I will sometimes spray a light coat of clear on the raw wood and sand that. It gives a more even surface hardness to work with rather than dealing with the woodgrain.
Great looking car BTW. Good luck in your races with it!
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Post by Hillbilly Kustoms on Feb 20, 2007 9:17:32 GMT -7
I just thought of another trick I have used. Over reduce the clear so that the solvent will dive into the wood. It will lift the grain a bit but it assists in level sanding it later. It also keeps the mils down on the paint build up and gives the clear more time to absorb and grab into the fiber of the wood.
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mrdeb
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Post by mrdeb on Feb 20, 2007 11:15:56 GMT -7
thanks for redoing the pic. will try a pic when car gets done. I use the glue / sawdust mix sometimes but the poly is easier to sand smooth. never tried the super glue but the poly is perhaps cheaper. thanks for the comment on the car- the entire body is hollow with the exception of the last 1 1/2" from rear of body. had to add 3 3/4 ounces to make close to 5 ounce car. making another car (cutoff of a third car) that the entire body is 1/4" thick. Just glued the axle trees on.
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Feb 20, 2007 14:47:31 GMT -7
Similar to Royal Ranger/S&W design cars[/color] BTW, I use Zinser shellac primer to seal the wood first. I have them 'tint' the white base with about 10 squirts of universal black colorant,that turns it a medium grey. Then I overthin with denatured alcohol & BRUSH on a couple of coats. The alcohol dries in a flash! fully cured in about 15 mins @ 70F The shellac primer does not raise the grain. Then I'll do my normal prepp, 2-part filler glaze,sand,prime,sand, prime,sand.........[/color]
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mrdeb
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Post by mrdeb on Feb 20, 2007 18:02:32 GMT -7
I will have to try that tinting of schllac. was all out of said schellac. filler glaze?? what per tell is this ?? I like your FAST team racing logo on that ranger car, why didn't you taper the ends? I found laying a belt sander on its side, chucking the axle tree in cordless drill then lightly sanding a taper. Less material against the wheel. How fast was were the two cars you displayed?
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Feb 20, 2007 18:44:09 GMT -7
I will have to try that tinting of schllac. was all out of said schellac. filler glaze?? what per tell is this ?? I like your FAST team racing logo on that ranger car, why didn't you taper the ends? I found laying a belt sander on its side, chucking the axle tree in cordless drill then lightly sanding a taper. Less material against the wheel. How fast was were the two cars you displayed? mrdeb, I use Evercoat Metal Glaze. It is a polyester Finishing & Blending Putty. It requires a hardener like regular 'bondo'. It has a thinner viscosity and virtually eliminates 'pinholes' . Sets pretty quick, 5-6 min @ 70-80F Sands like a dream, and comes in a quart sized squeeze bottle.
My son,Rayce, came up with the team name. I'm smiling now just thinking about it..... ;D
On Demon I did fully taper,almost like a pencil, the axle dowels. The 2 photos are of the same car....Demon. Those photos are pre-assembly.
PDDR was nice enough to let me run a non-BSA car,for exhibition, in Dec 06'. If you go to PDDR Race Archives, then go to Dec Pure Stock Videos,Dec Pure Stock Results, Dec Pure Stock Pics you can see the race,the beautiful picture David took and how the car ran.
Thanks again for your kind words. Your car looks like it's shaping up nicely. What class are you thinking of racing in? Glad to have you on board ;D[/b]
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mrdeb
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Post by mrdeb on Feb 21, 2007 8:33:35 GMT -7
Planning on stock class but might just slide up to modified if I cut some wheels etc. Looking at purchasing some EDGE wheels and axles for stock and try cutting out some super mod wheels using plexiglass then drilling for some ball bearings. All this prep is the prep for a city/county race I am organizing to benifit local animal shelter. Would be cool if I could get the Jeweks ? brothers (PDDR) to attend and perhaps incoroprate with their monthly PDDR race. Presently looking for a supplier of car kits (found a site that sells 10 for $26) so local merchants could sell for BIG RACE.Shooting for May, June or July
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Post by Hillbilly Kustoms on Feb 21, 2007 8:38:33 GMT -7
Check with Randy at Maximum Velocity. He may be interested in bulk kits too. Keep us posted with the details of the event, I'd love to participate.
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mrdeb
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Post by mrdeb on Feb 21, 2007 8:55:34 GMT -7
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on Feb 22, 2007 19:54:02 GMT -7
Good Stuff... a little too much work IMO for a car that is not in a design category, but good stuff none-the-less! RC
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Post by 2FAST4U on Feb 22, 2007 21:53:13 GMT -7
Good Stuff... a little too much work IMO for a car that is not in a design category, but good stuff none-the-less! RC I THINK YOU NEED TO LOOK GOOD, WHEN YOU ARE GOING FAST... ;D ;D ;D GREAT JOB... HOPE TO SEE IT AT THE RACES... GLENN / 2FAST4U
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