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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on May 21, 2007 7:37:17 GMT -7
How important is wood grain? When choosing a block what should you look for?
I've noticed that blocks with a wider more open grain are lighter, compared to ones with a tighter wood grain.
Does having a more straight grain make a car more stable by having less or at least more consistent expansion/contraction?
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Post by docb on May 21, 2007 10:34:14 GMT -7
Never thought of that...I just weigh the blocks I have and choose the lightest one.. Sorry Fast, can't get any hep from me
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Post by alineperformance on May 21, 2007 10:52:23 GMT -7
In choosing a block, weight is 2nd consideration. Look for a block where the grain runs about parallel across the 1 3/4 measurement then along the 7 inch distance. What you are looking for is a stable piece of wood that will not warp when it is cut to shape. Either that, or wait until the car is shaped before determining which is the "floating" wheel. a warp will make that decision for you. We have found that a good piece of sugar pine is nearly as light as balsa and much more stable as well as easy to paint.
One last thought, never make a car out of ash. Everyone knows how hard it is to find a good piece of ash.
(Dumb cabinet maker joke - goes with the occupation)
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on May 22, 2007 17:10:06 GMT -7
In choosing a block, weight is 2nd consideration. Look for a block where the grain runs about parallel across the 1 3/4 measurement then along the 7 inch distance. What you are looking for is a stable piece of wood that will not warp when it is cut to shape. Either that, or wait until the car is shaped before determining which is the "floating" wheel. a warp will make that decision for you. We have found that a good piece of sugar pine is nearly as light as balsa and much more stable as well as easy to paint.One last thought, never make a car out of ash. Everyone knows how hard it is to find a good piece of ash. (Dumb cabinet maker joke - goes with the occupation) Thanks for your help A-Line We don't get much sugar pine here in Florida...... How does yellow pine compare
A member of our church owns a custom trim & molding shop and was nice enough to give me some 5/4 clear select southern yellow pine 'shorts' (scraps). Also some poplar 5/4 and cypress 3/4 shorts.
Not sure if Poplar & Cypress woods fit the 'spirit' of Pinewood Derby. But a lot of builders use Balsa and Basswood too........
How 'tight' should the grain be ?
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Post by alineperformance on May 22, 2007 20:25:18 GMT -7
Of the woods mentioned, basswood is wonderful to work with and gets it's name from all those who carve bass "fishing plugs". It is heavier than most of the pines. Yellow pine is my second choice from sugar pine. Poplar is common and great to work with but as with the basswood a bit heavier. I don't know much about Cypress - must be a Florida local item. If you are making a derby car, just about anything will work especially if the car is somewhat sleek in design (not much wood left any way). I have one car nick-named woody made from mahogany, walnut and maple strips - cool looking but not very fast.
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on May 27, 2007 5:41:45 GMT -7
I thought the cars ar all supposed to be made out of Pinewood hence the name PINEwood Derby RC
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Post by Parrot Racing on May 27, 2007 7:58:39 GMT -7
Pure stock is the only one that states you must use one of the pinewood kits, all others say the body must be made of wood.
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Post by derbydoc on May 27, 2007 8:11:43 GMT -7
I have worked with poplar a little but I dont really like it. Its a good bit heavier than pine. Seems like pine is a little easier to sand also. As far as warping, Im not sure how they stack up. Before I drill any holes for axles, I mill the bottom so it will be a truely flat surface. You can also do this with a planer.
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Post by 94 GT Laser RC on May 27, 2007 16:11:01 GMT -7
Pure stock is the only one that states you must use one of the pinewood kits, all others say the body must be made of wood. Gotcha...Thanks for the clarification... I never read the wood part...I just looked for rules on wheels/axels/spacing, etc. Thanks RC
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Mar 2, 2009 10:23:49 GMT -7
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Post by Classy Chassis on Mar 2, 2009 20:58:12 GMT -7
A-Line funny ash joke!!! I do not know what type of wood I used for my March Stocker(sorry girl thing) However I do know that it was too soft. Had an Awesome design in my head but everytime you touch it, it dents or craves in, or something. As I applied the decal the section between the grain just caved in. Oh well, it will have to be about speed. Imagine that!!!
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Mar 3, 2009 4:51:27 GMT -7
Forgot to mention the types of pine
The first three,from the left, are Eastern White Pine.
The far right one is Southern Yellow Pine. This is the most common available & is used extensively in home,deck and other construction. Here in Fla 95% of the dimensional lumber at Lowe's/HomeDepot are Southern pine.
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Post by 2FAST4U on Mar 3, 2009 22:04:20 GMT -7
Forgot to mention the types of pine
The first three,from the left, are Eastern White Pine.
The far right one is Southern Yellow Pine. This is the most common available & is used extensively in home,deck and other construction. Here in Fla 95% of the dimensional lumber at Lowe's/HomeDepot are Southern pine.
[/size][/color] [/quote] Fast also did not mention that the numbers on the wood is how much each pine block weighs in grams... ;D I will take the one that says 46.95
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Post by Ironhead on Apr 20, 2009 12:20:54 GMT -7
why the 46.95, is that because you will have to remove less wood and allowing more lead ?
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Post by F.A.S.T Racing on Apr 20, 2009 12:54:23 GMT -7
why the 46.95, is that because you will have to remove less wood and allowing more lead ? In a nutshell.... Yes
The less the body weighs, the more "engine" (lead/Tungsten) you can add. Also, you can be more precise in COM & balance point.
At this level of competition Milliseconds matter...
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