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Post by nicdolas on Feb 26, 2010 23:20:32 GMT -7
put my sons car together tonight and it ran very crooked, unfortunately the axles were in so tight I couldnt get them out without ruining the new wheels and axles i just got from jewkes. So now I'm back to square one. I cant see spending all that cash again for new wheels and axles so I am gonna have to go stock wheels. I have a 3.8 tungsten disc, does anyone have a layout or plans I could use we only have 2 weeks left to build this car. I dont have the block for my axles I use the "U" but it seems to make the axles very difficult to set in place with the wheels. Does the "U" work and should I redrill after so the holes for the axles are larger? Please help this is for our district scout race.
emails are fine nicdolas@gmail.com
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Post by W Racing on Feb 26, 2010 23:26:19 GMT -7
Are the wheels and axles ok?
Because you can cut the car in half and get them out
I have a perfect design for thar weight once I get home I will describe it
What are your rules
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Post by down4derby on Feb 26, 2010 23:44:23 GMT -7
Hi, Ive used the u tool i think your reffering to and the bit supplied is for standard size axles. I think someone in the classifides has some stockers for sale.
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Post by nicdolas on Feb 26, 2010 23:53:51 GMT -7
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Post by W Racing on Feb 27, 2010 1:04:24 GMT -7
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Post by nicdolas on Feb 27, 2010 8:01:15 GMT -7
the made some changes for the rules trying to paste them here
there 2010 rules say nothing about all wheels touching which i wont chance it, and no the wheel is bent completely for 1 and the internal part wheel where the axle goes in is also bent on the other.
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Post by W Racing on Feb 27, 2010 8:26:15 GMT -7
If the other two wheels are perfect use them on the rears....
Ask about the four wheel touching. Huge speed advantage if you can raise a wheel...
Here is how I made summer run:
This car I used a plastic cereal bowl as a stencil to make the shape of the nose.
Construction details:
Mark the axle locations for a pure stock. Use the BSA block as a guide...
Drill axle holes.
Flip block on its back and draw a center line on the car. Draw a line between the rear axle holes.
Mark 1/4" in front of the rear axle line as the place to drill the hole:
If you have a drill press use a scrap piece of wood and a 1" forstner bit (first choice) or a 1" butterfly bit (Basic standard 1" drill bit) Drill at least a 1/2" through the block.
Do this on a test scrap in your drill press and measure each side to see it it is centered and then use your real wood...
If handrill drill a pilot hole about 1/4" and then drill with the bigger bit...
Draw the side profile of the car:
SummerRun is cut 5/16" from rear to front axle. I used the cereal bowl to mark the radius on the nose to narrow it in front of the axle.
Draw the bottom profile of the car:
Draw a line between the front axles and then another line 1/4" in front of the front axle holes.
Mark the front of the car 3/8" from either side.
use the bowl to create a curve between these points or just cut a straight line
Cut out the side profile.
You may need to have the car thicker at the axles and dip down to 1/4" between the axles. Depending on the height of your axle holes…
Cut the bottom profile of the car on a saw or use 120 grit sandpaper to shape ( I like norton from HomeDepot because it sands faster)
Mark 1/16 inch of both sides of car (if you have 4 wheels touching) sand it so that each side has 1/16" sanded off of it to narrow the front as well as the side of the car. However leave the car full width at the rear axles. so meake the transition somewhere in the middle of the axle holes...
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Post by nicdolas on Feb 27, 2010 17:41:35 GMT -7
Thank you everyone who lended me a hand and offered some advice, W racing and Glenn thanks a ton for your advice and help
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Post by Slingblades_Grindhouse on Feb 27, 2010 20:00:26 GMT -7
Nic I have several sets of wheels that may fit the bill...depending on the rules of course  Let me know what you CAN and CANNOT do...I may have something that will work... I possibly have something that just needs a re-prep you can use Maybe we can come up with a trade or  I know I have a set of 3.1g JE wheels on a car I went 2.99 with... your welcome (free) to run those if you would like to do the re-prep...let me know and ill ship them Monday |
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Post by Wood Butcher Racing on Feb 28, 2010 5:20:13 GMT -7
Is the "U" the slots from the BSA block?
Sounds like the slots/holes are too small for the axles. They should be really snug so they don't fall out, but a litle glue can help them stay in place.
I would also reccomend the axle pliers from MaxV. I balked at the $20 price tag initially, but I am so glad I did it. It really does make it a snap to insert/pull axles - without bending wheels. It is great for 'steering' too.
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Post by nicdolas on Feb 28, 2010 18:27:45 GMT -7
everything is good now btw thanks to glenn and his help with some pre owned eq.. and W with some tips will put up some pics when the car is dry
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Post by nicdolas on Feb 28, 2010 20:45:40 GMT -7
  need to clear coat and add the wheels and weight |
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Post by W Racing on Mar 1, 2010 2:06:02 GMT -7
Looks great! ;D ;D Are you going 3 or 4 wheels touching?
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Post by nicdolas on Mar 1, 2010 9:41:27 GMT -7
we have to have 4 touching i confirmed that yesterday
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Post by W Racing on Mar 1, 2010 9:45:31 GMT -7
Are you going to narrow both sides of the car 1/16"? It is a huge speedtip for 4 wheels touching.
Do the wheel sneed to be flat and touching or just touching?
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