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Post by Chop Shop on Dec 3, 2009 6:09:19 GMT -7
I agree with the posts on recommendations, but if you absolutely have to have a 4 wheels touching, I've read that RR is still effective. I understand the non-dominant wheel should be drilled straight and with just enough weight so that it rolls but carrying very little weight. Why wouldn't you negative cant that non-dominant front axle just like the rears?
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Post by ACME Racing on Dec 3, 2009 6:37:35 GMT -7
What you have to do it carry the rules in your pocket. Have them point out to you where it says all wheels must touch. This happened to me at a small local race. They said I couldn't run what they called "thin wheels" I pulled my rules out of my pocket and said there is no mention of wheels or axles in the rules. Without hesitation they said I could race. They were just making it up! If I didn't pull the rules out it could have been different. Plus I'm sure if you look at all the cars there will be several with only 3 wheels touching. Maybe not on purpose but a lot of times when you "try" to get 4 wheels down there is usually one wheel that either barely touches or is up a little anyway. You must know your rules inside and out.
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Post by hotsports on Dec 3, 2009 20:25:58 GMT -7
thanks to everyone so far, good advise. just don't want to get my son disqualified for pushing the proverbial envelope. i will try and clarify the rule regarding all 4 wheels touching. i really want to try rail rider this year. ;D
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Post by ACME Racing on Dec 3, 2009 21:03:49 GMT -7
When you posted the rules were they word for word? Do you have a written copy of the rules? I have read rules where they say that all 4 wheels must touch the track. Your rules don't say that at all. Depending on who you ask the answers will differ. If you run all 4 wheels on the track with strait drills with 2009 wheels you sanded yourself - you will loose to the others that buy Jewkes wheels and axles running a 3 wheel rail runner. With all you've learned here I would hate for that to happen. Think of it as buying a Crane Cam, Edelbrock intake, TRW pistons and a Holly carb to hop up your 1971 Mustang. Your not expected to grind your own cam or cast your own carb. It's up to you to put it all together correctly. Put that cam in at zero and you just might loose to another builder that advances it 1.5 degrees. Same with the derby cars. You still have a ton to do yourself even if you buy wheels and axles. I went through some of what your feeling. I even bought a lathe. I couldn't match Jewkes. So I thought why fight the power? I sold my lathe and buy Jewkes stuff. It's so much easier!
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