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Post by King Of Hearts on Jan 31, 2007 21:31:52 GMT -7
Well after seeing the quality of the wheels and the secret axles I for one will be lining up for some quality tools.Count me in,put me on the list what ever it is you have to do,just don't forget me KOH
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Post by W Racing on Feb 1, 2007 0:46:48 GMT -7
I really need this tool as well!!!
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Post by King Of Hearts on Feb 8, 2007 9:52:37 GMT -7
If using the "pro body tool" you should start with a sleightly oversized block of wood. If the fit into the tool is tight it is easy to drill straight holes even using a hand drill. I took my "pbt" and had the throat of it deepened so the holes are drilled up 3/16 - 1/4 up into the wood body from the bottom. Glen and David are working on a new tool for drilling nearly perfect holes. I'm not sure how soon it will be ready to market. Hey A-Line performance, I got a question for you,where or who did you have deepen the throat of your "pbt" I would really like to have this done.I was thinking of having the top of the axle hole be right at a 1/4"this would leave a little extra room under the axles for some weight . I would consider drilling them with either of the 2 press's we have but neither have an acceptable runout. KOH
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Post by alineperformance on Feb 8, 2007 11:21:21 GMT -7
I have a friend who works at the aircraft milling area. He sits at a CNC and trys to think up things to do until the next project rolls in (not). But with some coaxing he cut the tool deeper. I think any machine shop with a milling maching can do the work. Tell them it is for the "cub scouts" and you may get a discount. (Then you have to let the kids borrow it now and again to get their cars right)
Ideally the axle hole should be 1/4 inch from the tool base to the axle bore centerline. That will leave 3/8 inch from bottom of car to track surface.
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Post by King Of Hearts on Feb 8, 2007 12:07:33 GMT -7
Thanks for the info A-LP,I wasn't quite sure of the measurement that would work for the min 3/8" clearance that our council rules stipulate.But I figured a little less to be on the safe side. Now to find a shop that could do it,does anyone have anybody in mind ;D! KOH
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Post by JOKER on Feb 8, 2007 16:23:03 GMT -7
.250" - .275" - that leaves little room for error. To still be 3/8 clearance, .250" is safe & .275" if you want to push the envelope a bit. (assuming your wheel diameter is 1.170")
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Post by King Of Hearts on Feb 8, 2007 17:11:29 GMT -7
.250" - .275" - that leaves little room for error. To still be 3/8 clearance, .250" is safe & .275" if you want to push the envelope a bit. (assuming your wheel diameter is 1.170") Thanks Joker,if I can find someone to do it I would probably stay on the safe side as it would be used for my youngest sons future derby cars.As far as the wheel size as of right now that should not be a problem,our current council rules only allow us to lightly sand the wheel tread to remove the bump caused by the mold mark.Hopefully because of Glenn's help by next year they will have revised the rules,we shall see.Now to find someone to do it . KOH
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Post by King Of Hearts on Feb 11, 2007 18:41:54 GMT -7
Hey Joker,
I was working through the math on this one and the way I see it .250" for a centerline looks like it would not make the 3/8" clearance that we would need for our rules.Have you built a car using the .250" centerline?And I think my numbers were based on a bigger wheel than 1.170".
I want to get this right if I am going to get someone to deepen the throat on my pbt.I would like to just drill the holes with one of the 2 presses that we have but neither have acceptable runout.
I think my measurements were assuming that the car had to actually be supporting its weight when placed over the 3/8" gauge.There would probaly be enough room for the body to slide on the gauge but not have the wheels be supporting any weight and still roll with the .250" centerline.I guess we are only talking about 1/32" right?
KOH
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Post by Model Boys on Feb 11, 2007 19:40:41 GMT -7
My Delta drill press (purchased on Christmas Eve at Lowes for $39) isn't square either. Surprise! Gee, and I couldn't figure out why the cars weren't fast. Then I bought an "Engineers square" on ebay. It's like a 90 degree woodworkers square except it doesn't slide. After I drilled the hole, I took the bit out of the drill press and pushed it into the hole and held the square along the side of the car barely touching drill bit. You can hold it up to the light and see if the are any gaps between the square and the bit. There were, but not too much so I got a few Post-It notes and put 4 or 5 of them under one end of the the block of wood. I adjusted the number of post-its until I got no gap between the bit and the square. That makes the hole 90 degrees to the side of the block. Of course you still have to make it 90 degrees in the other plane too. Bob and Robert, the Model Boys
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Post by JOKER on Feb 12, 2007 13:23:59 GMT -7
Hey Joker, I was working through the math on this one and the way I see it .250" for a centerline looks like it would not make the 3/8" clearance that we would need for our rules.Have you built a car using the .250" centerline?And I think my numbers were based on a bigger wheel than 1.170". I want to get this right if I am going to get someone to deepen the throat on my pbt.I would like to just drill the holes with one of the 2 presses that we have but neither have acceptable runout. I think my measurements were assuming that the car had to actually be supporting its weight when placed over the 3/8" gauge.There would probaly be enough room for the body to slide on the gauge but not have the wheels be supporting any weight and still roll with the .250" centerline.I guess we are only talking about 1/32" right? KOH .250" should keep you legal, especially if you are using a bigger wheel.
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Post by King Of Hearts on Feb 12, 2007 15:30:53 GMT -7
Hey Joker, Thanks for all the help.I was chatting with Glenn the other night and he worked some #'s for me.He came up with .226" for a wheel measuring 1.190".So at this point we are splitting hairs.I only asked because it would be for a scout car and we would want to be on the safe side.So we might even go a little les than that.I do appreciate you helping me out with the info though,thanks ;D.
KOH
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