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Post by Evans Family Racing on Nov 3, 2009 7:24:29 GMT -7
glen what do you mean by don't let 4 th wheel free spin. how or what wood you do to stop it. i do not understand. sorry i din't see kb's page 2 post. jevans
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Post by ACME Racing on Nov 3, 2009 7:43:47 GMT -7
I would also make sure the lower part of the fixed wheel is slathered with graphite on the inner rim. ;D
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Post by KB Racing on Nov 3, 2009 7:55:05 GMT -7
correct me if I'm wrong but isn't adding a fixed wheel the equivalent to adding a brake to a car? what is the purpose anyway?
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Post by ACME Racing on Nov 3, 2009 11:00:25 GMT -7
I believe the idea is that it takes more energy to spin up a wheel rather than have it slide if properly prepared. If Glenn says to do it then I would. ;D
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Post by psycaz on Nov 3, 2009 11:38:09 GMT -7
If you fix the non-dfw to the body on a car that has the front end narrowed the 1/16, does that create any issues with clearing the center rail side to side?
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Post by ACME Racing on Nov 3, 2009 11:44:55 GMT -7
If you fix the non-dfw to the body on a car that has the front end narrowed the 1/16, does that create any issues with clearing the center rail side to side? It will clear by a lot. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy one piece of 1/4 x 1.75 inch piece of wood lattice. Rip it to 1.625 inches wide. Sand the sides smooth with 400 grit. This is the rail width of a Besttrack. Roll your car over it and you can see your clearances.
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Post by Vodka Racing on Nov 3, 2009 15:45:10 GMT -7
If you fix the non-dfw to the body on a car that has the front end narrowed the 1/16, does that create any issues with clearing the center rail side to side? It will clear by a lot. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy one piece of 1/4 x 1.75 inch piece of wood lattice. Rip it to 1.625 inches wide. Sand the sides smooth with 400 grit. This is the rail width of a Besttrack. Roll your car over it and you can see your clearances. Don't go by this rail width if you're gonna run on another track. And BSA derby rules require wider spacing regardless of the track used.
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Post by Shade Racing on Nov 3, 2009 16:17:45 GMT -7
push the axle in as far as possible so it pinches the wheel up against the body and will not spin freely this will eliminate vibration also which would slow you down
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Post by ACME Racing on Nov 3, 2009 16:34:15 GMT -7
KB, Don't over engineer your first car or two. Build it and run it. You will pull your hair out trying to build a perfect car. Send your car to the race this Saturday and maybe Glenn will give you some pointers. Believe me - I've sent some crappy cars in that I know Glenn and David had to just laugh! Just look at this footage of this car. Guess who's it was?
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Post by Vodka Racing on Nov 3, 2009 23:36:57 GMT -7
Nice toe stub, how many feet did it fly!
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Post by ACME Racing on Nov 4, 2009 6:29:48 GMT -7
I don't know how far it flew. Maybe someone drew a white line around it on the floor?!!! ;D
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Post by Vodka Racing on Nov 4, 2009 14:53:22 GMT -7
Maybe someone drew a white line around it on the floor?!!! ;D Hopefully, with charges pending.
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Post by KB Racing on Nov 5, 2009 5:06:19 GMT -7
looking at the track it looks like it has a jump just after the hill. the joints look ok but it is hard to tell from where i am setting... the track looks pretty short if you take a look at the guys foot standing next to it...
this is how i would set the car up...
cant rear axles...rail ride with about 8 inches of steer in 8 feet... set your cg's at 1.5 inches in front of the rear axles narrow the front end on both sides of the car so between the bottom inside edge of the wheels are set at 1 3/4 of an inch if you can go less then go 1 11/16th this will help keep the car from going into a wobble from a bumpy track and it will keep the rear wheels off the track... do not have the forth wheel free spin... oh use the new 91sga axles and the 2010 PureStockr's, if you can the 1.0 gram SuperStockr's will dominate that track... ;D
Glenn
I would like to just clarify a few things.
1. com 1.5 in front of rear axle? so like most cars dont load the weight in the back end? Is this to keep it from fish tailing down the track? 2. narrow front end on both sides. I'm assuming equal amounts or more on dfw? 3. do not have the fourth wheel free spin. I'm not sure what this means, I was planning on having the front left raised, and loading up my dfw with graphite 4. The new products you recommended can they be used for an awana race?
Thanks Guys I cant tell you how much I appreciate the advice
last question....5. I'm taking the wood down to 1oz is that to much? tx kb
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Post by ACME Racing on Nov 5, 2009 6:55:37 GMT -7
I think that after seeing the ski jump Glenn recommends a little more weight on your front end. Probably to help keep the front on the track rather than pop a wheelie. As far as reducing your wood to 1 oz that will be fine. My wood ends up at around .3 oz on all my cars. That track looks like a bumpy ride to me. Even with the proper steer I believe your front is still going to slap around some. By narrowing the front this will keep your slap to a minimum. Start building your machine. You have enough information to start. Then post pictures along the way. Your not going to get it right the first time. Have some fun and let the dust fly! ;D
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Post by KB Racing on Nov 6, 2009 10:42:24 GMT -7
So what you are saying a COM anything under a 1/2 inch would be nutso racing on this motocross track.
KB
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