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Post by W Racing on Oct 10, 2009 8:13:10 GMT -7
The first post has been updated with this info. UPDATES: Make sure your wheels are clean. In particular make sure there is no graphite on the tread surface of the rear wheels. Keep your added weight low... Meaning if you use cubes keep them in the body of the car and drill the axle holes aprox half way up the car... If you are using a disc. Drop the disc so that it is flush with the top of the car OR center the disc with regards to the axle. Do not leave it high.
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Post by W Racing on Apr 26, 2010 9:39:26 GMT -7
UPDATED:
This:
Coalcar is aprox. 5/32 on rear 1/16 on front DFW...
Changed to:
5/32" on rears 4/32" on raised wheel 3/32" on DFW
Either way works but this will keep you from nicking the block.
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ljo
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Post by ljo on Nov 2, 2010 16:52:42 GMT -7
I'm confused on trimming 1/16" off of the DFW side? Could someone ellaborate on this?
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Post by W Racing on Nov 2, 2010 17:15:59 GMT -7
DFW is Dominant Front Wheel. The one that rides the rail.
You shave 1/16th off the body of the car. I do this from the nose all the way past where the axle is until the entire wheel has been cleared and then some.
It keeps the rear wheels from touching the center rail.
The rears have most of the weight on them.
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ljo
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Post by ljo on Nov 2, 2010 19:38:54 GMT -7
Ok, that helps. I have a personal goal of sub 3s with a 4 wheeler on graphite. Trying to adhere to our district rules. ___ says this can be done if "you know what you're doing", haha. Hopefully I get lucky!
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Post by W Racing on Nov 2, 2010 21:40:58 GMT -7
Can you cant your wheels on the four touching?
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ljo
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Post by ljo on Nov 3, 2010 8:17:29 GMT -7
I think so. The new rules aren't out yet. They were strict on axle slots, which I "faked" last year. Im embarrassed to say we used a derbyjunk drilling fixture to drill our body for the pack race. Had to cut a slot in the middle and slightly channeled under the holes just enough to make it look like the axles were epoxied in slots. It was pretty cool because you could see the nails in the middle of the "slot" but in reality it was in a solid hole.
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Post by P D D R 2 on Nov 3, 2010 16:19:22 GMT -7
DFW is Dominant Front Wheel. The one that rides the rail. "Runs the Rail" remember W... Riding on the rail just slows you down Don't confuse the new guys... ;D
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Post by P D D R 2 on Nov 3, 2010 16:22:51 GMT -7
When I have had to use the slots, I just epoxied the end of the slots, then drilled with the block as usual. I haven't had any problems that way and I still follow the rules, I just switched the order... epoxy first and drill second Works every time doesn't it 5Kids.... ;D ;D
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Post by psycaz on Nov 3, 2010 21:07:29 GMT -7
When I have had to use the slots I have done one of two things:
1. Drill holes into the pine WITHOUT using the slots, then cut the slots by taping two hacksaw blades together and cutting the slots - they come out perfect if you take your time.
2. If I was using the existing slots, I would drill the holes at the top of the slots. Once you put the bend into the Dominant Front Wheel, it will lift the other off the ground so you will only have three touching. Only way it didn't work was if I needed a ton of steer and I didn't have enough bend to keep the wheel up. Only happened once. Just did another axle with more bend.
Hope that gives you more options.
No matter what, use Jewkes products and you will be fine.
ASK PLENTY of question here if you come up with anything you want to know.
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Post by W Racing on Nov 3, 2010 21:20:27 GMT -7
"Runs the Rail" remember W... Riding on the rail just slows you down Don't confuse the new guys... ;D ;D ;D ;D
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